Shrimp Creole

ALONG WITH SEAFOOD GUMBO, JAMBALAYA, AND beignets, shrimp creole is a signature dish of New Orleans, but I don’t think I’ve ever had two versions there that tasted exactly alike. Carelessly prepared (as it usually is outside the region), shrimp creole can be bland, banal, and downright ghastly, but when made with real care, according to traditional culinary principles, it qualifies as one of the South’s greatest creations. Bottles of filé powder (ground sassafras leaves) are now available almost everywhere, and this unique thickening agent does have a very special flavor. Just make sure to add it off the heat; otherwise, the dish will be offensively stringy.

MAKES: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• 4 medium onions, chopped
• 2 ribs celery, chopped
• 1 large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried fennel, crumbled
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 pounds medium fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 2 teaspoons filé powder
• Hot cooked rice

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a large, heavy pot, heat the peanut oil over moderate heat.
2. Add the chopped onions, celery, bell pepper, and minced garlic to the pot.
3. Cook the vegetables, stirring occasionally, until they are softened, which usually takes about 3 minutes.
4. Add the dried thyme, dried fennel, bay leaf, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, and clam juice to the pot. Stir well.
5. Return the pot to a simmer and cook for about 5 minutes.
6. Add the crushed tomatoes and tomato paste to the pot. Stir to combine.
7. Cover the pot and continue cooking for 15 to 20 minutes.
8. Add the peeled and deveined shrimp to the pot. Stir well.
9. Cook just until the shrimp turn pink, which usually takes about 2 minutes.
10. Remove the pot from the heat and sprinkle the filé powder over the top.
11. Gently stir until the liquid has thickened.
12. To serve, spoon about a cup of hot cooked rice into wide soup bowls.
13. Ladle the shrimp and sauce over the rice.
14. Serve the shrimp Creole hot.