Roasted Quail Stuffed with Oysters

ALL ALONG THE CAROLINA AND GULF COASTS, COOKS have been aware for ages of the natural affinity between game birds and oysters, and never is this marriage more successful than when plump fresh oysters are stuffed inside tender, flavorful quail (or, in some Southern parlance, “partridges” or “bobwhites”) and gently roasted. Since quail are so small and delicate, overcooking them is nothing less than disastrous, so watch the timing carefully to make sure they don’t dry out and toughen. When I once attended a quail roast at a restored plantation in South Carolina, a
big to-do was made about the difference between hunted quail, which feed on berries, and those given chicken feed on commercial farms. No doubt the wild birds have more flavor, but I have absolutely no objection to the frozen farm-raised quail now available in many markets. I like to serve the quail in this recipe with plenty of wild rice.

MAKES: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 dressed quail (fresh or frozen)
• 1⁄2 lemon
• 12 tablespoons (11⁄2 sticks) butter, melted
• 11⁄2 tablespoons dried tarragon, crumbled
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 16 fresh oysters, shucked
• 21⁄2 cups yellow cornmeal
• 8 strips bacon

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
2. Rinse the quail well inside and out and pat them dry with paper towels.
3. In a bowl, squeeze the lemon into the melted butter.
4. Add the dried tarragon, salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce to the lemon-butter mixture. Stir until well blended.
5. Dip the oysters into the butter mixture, ensuring they are well coated.
6. Lightly dredge the oysters in the yellow cornmeal.
7. Stuff 2 oysters into the cavity of each quail.
8. Tie or skewer the quail with the wings and legs close to their bodies.
9. Wrap each quail with a strip of bacon.
10. Place the quail on a rack in a large, shallow roasting pan.
11. Roast the quail in the preheated oven for 15 minutes.
12. Remove the bacon from the quail and baste the birds with the pan juices.
13. Return the quail to the oven for an additional 10 minutes, basting them once more.
14. Serve the quail piping hot.