PATATAS BRAVAS

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:

The best versions of patatas bravas, a favorite Spanish tapas preparation, showcase crispy, well-browned potato pieces served with a smoky, spicy tomato-based sauce. To create an ultracrispy crust without double frying, we parboiled russet potatoes with baking soda, which triggers a chain reaction that causes the pectin on the exteriors of the potatoes to release a layer of starch that, when fried, develops into a thick crust. We tossed the parcooked potatoes with kosher salt, which roughs up the surfaces of the potatoes, creating nooks and crannies through which steam can escape. The nooks and crannies also trap oil, helping to make an even more substantial crunchy crust. For our sauce, we cooked tomato paste, cayenne, sweet smoked paprika, garlic, and water, finishing with sherry vinegar. Finally, adding mayonnaise allowed us to combine the bravas sauce and another common accompaniment, aïoli, into a single sauce. Bittersweet or hot smoked paprika can be used in place of sweet, if desired. If you make this substitution, be sure to taste the sauce before deciding how much cayenne to add, if any. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more for this recipe.

SERVES: 4 to 6

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS:

SAUCE

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 teaspoons garlic, minced to paste
• 1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• ½–¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Pinch red pepper flakes
• ¼ cup tomato paste
• ½ cup water
• 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
• ¼ cup mayonnaise

POTATOES

• 2¼ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• Kosher salt
• 3 cups vegetable oil

INSTRUCTIONS:

FOR THE SAUCE

1. 1. Heat oil in small saucepan over medium-low heat until shimmering.
   2. Add garlic, paprika, salt, cayenne, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
   3. Add tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds.
   4. Whisk in water and bring to boil over high heat.
   5. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until slightly thickened, 4 to 5 minutes.
   6. Transfer sauce to bowl, stir in vinegar, and let cool completely, about 20 minutes.
   7. Once cool, whisk in mayonnaise.

FOR THE POTATOES

1. 1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan over high heat.
   2. Add potatoes and baking soda. Return to boil and cook for 1 minute.
   3. Drain potatoes.
   4. Return potatoes to now-empty saucepan and place over low heat.
   5. Cook, shaking saucepan occasionally, until any surface moisture has evaporated, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
   6. Remove from heat.
   7. Add 1½ teaspoons salt and stir with rubber spatula until potatoes are coated with thick, starchy paste, about 30 seconds.
   8. Transfer potatoes to rimmed baking sheet in single layer to cool.

COOKING AND SERVING

1. 1. Set wire rack in second rimmed baking sheet and line with triple layer of paper towels.
   2. Heat oil in large Dutch oven to 375 degrees over high heat.
   3. Add all potatoes (they should just be submerged in oil) and cook, stirring occasionally with wire skimmer or slotted spoon, until deep golden brown and crispy, 20 to 25 minutes.
   4. Using skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to prepared rack.
   5. Season with salt to taste.
   6. Spoon ½ cup sauce onto bottom of serving platter or 1½ tablespoons sauce onto individual plates.
   7. Arrange potatoes over sauce and serve immediately, passing remaining sauce separately.