Fried Rabbit with Madeira Gravy

NO DISH IS MORE PRIZED IN THE SOUTH THAN FRIED rabbit with a cream or wine gravy, and while the idea makes me shudder a bit today, I can still remember as a young boy catching wild rabbits in traps, helping my grandfather skin and dress them, then watching my mother cut them up and fry them for dinner. Today, of course, frozen dressed rabbits are available in more and more markets as Americans shed their prejudices over eating “bunnies,” and restaurant chefs come up with ever new preparations. Basically, rabbit is fried just like chicken, meaning that care must be taken not to overcook it to avoid dry toughness. And yes, fried rabbit does taste almost like fried chicken (and, for that matter, like fried squirrel). Madeira gravy goes back a long way in the South, but if you don’t have a bottle of the wine, substitute either port or sweet vermouth.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 cup lard or vegetable shortening
• 2  3-pound rabbits, dressed and cut into serving pieces
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 1/2 cups chicken broth
• 1 cup Madeira

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a paper bag, combine 1 cup of flour, cornmeal, salt, and pepper. Shake well to mix.
2. In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the lard over moderate heat.
3. Dip the rabbit pieces in buttermilk, then dredge them in the flour mixture by shaking them in the paper bag.
4. Add the coated rabbit pieces to the skillet and brown them evenly on all sides in the fat. Do this in batches if necessary.
5. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to cook the rabbit, turning frequently with tongs, until it is tender. This will take about 30 to 35 minutes.
6. Drain the cooked rabbit pieces on another paper bag or paper towels.
7. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of flour and stir over moderate heat until smooth, scraping up drippings from the bottom of the pan.
8. Add the chicken broth and Madeira to the skillet. Season with salt and pepper.
9. Increase the heat slightly and stir the mixture constantly until the gravy is nicely thickened.
10. Serve the rabbit on a platter and pass the gravy separately.