Drunken Beans

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS? Frijoles borrachos, or drunken beans, are a northern Mexican staple. This satisfying, brothy dish is simple, humble, and utterly comforting: Pinto beans are cooked with a bit of pork or lard, a few herbs and aromatics, and either beer or tequila. We set out to create a recipe for creamy, intact beans in a lightly thickened broth with multidimensional flavor. We started with dried beans, since a full-flavored bean cooking liquid was essential. We soaked the beans in salt water before cooking them, which helped to soften their skins. Bacon gave the dish smoky, savory depth, and doubled as a crisp garnish. We sautéed our aromatics—traditional onion, poblano chiles, and garlic—in the rendered bacon fat for deep flavor. A combination of tequila (added at the beginning of cooking) and light beer (added at the end) created good depth of flavor with subtle malty notes. To underscore the fresh and sweet flavors in the beans, we added a bundle of cilantro stems, reserving the leaves for garnish. Although the gentle heat of the oven worked to ensure the beans cooked evenly, using the oven alone left us with a broth that was thin and watery. Simmering the pot uncovered on the stovetop at the end of cooking allowed some of the liquid to evaporate, producing a perfect, brothy pot of beans. You’ll get fewer blowouts if you soak the beans overnight as directed, but if you are pressed for time you can quick-salt-soak your beans. In step 1, combine the salt, water, and beans in a large Dutch oven and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 hour. Drain and rinse the beans and proceed with the recipe. Our favorite Mexican lager is Tecate. Queso fresco can be substituted for the Cotija.

SERVES: 8 to 10

INGREDIENTS:

• Salt
• 1 pound (2½ cups) dried pinto beans, picked over and rinsed
• 30 sprigs fresh cilantro (1 bunch)
• 4 slices bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces
• 1 onion, chopped fine
• 2 poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• ½ cup tequila
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup Mexican lager
• ¼ cup tomato paste
• 2 limes, quartered
• 2 ounces Cotija cheese, crumbled (½ cup)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Dissolve 3 tablespoons salt in 4 quarts cold water in a large bowl or container. Add beans and soak at room temperature for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours. Drain and rinse well.
2. Adjust the oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Pick the leaves from 20 cilantro sprigs and mince them. Refrigerate until needed. Tie the remaining 10 cilantro sprigs and reserved stems into a bundle using kitchen twine.
3. Cook the bacon in a Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, which should take around 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate. Add the onion, poblanos, and garlic to the fat left in the pot and cook over medium heat until softened, which should take around 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Remove the pot from heat and add tequila. Let it sit until evaporated, which should take around 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in 3½ cups water, beans, cilantro bundle, 1 teaspoon salt, and bay leaves. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot, transfer it to the oven, and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the beans are just soft.
5. Remove the pot from the oven. Discard the bay leaves and cilantro bundle. Stir in the beer and tomato paste, then bring it to a vigorous simmer over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the liquid is thick and the beans are fully tender, which should take about 30 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve the beans, passing lime wedges, Cotija cheese, minced cilantro, and reserved crisp bacon separately.