Barbecued Quail

BARBECUED QUAIL CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST succulent game birds on earth, but Southerners learned long ago that, unless the delicate creatures are wrapped in bacon and basted constantly with some other liquid fat to prevent them from drying out, the best method is to braise them slowly in barbecue sauce on top of the stove. Some cooks like to split the quail up the back and flatten them for easier browning, but I much prefer to cook and serve the birds intact. Nothing goes better with barbecued quail than wild rice.

MAKES: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 large onion, minced
• 1⁄2 cup dry white wine
• 1⁄2 cup cider vinegar
• 1⁄4 cup ketchup
• 1⁄4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 teaspoon dry mustard
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 4 tablespoons lard or peanut oil
• 8 dressed quail (fresh or frozen and thawed), rinsed inside and out and patted dry with paper towels

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a stainless-steel or enameled saucepan, combine the minced onion, white wine, cider vinegar, ketchup, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard, salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce.
2. Bring the sauce to a simmer, stirring occasionally, and cook for 10 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat.
3. In a large, heavy enameled skillet or casserole, heat the lard or peanut oil over moderately high heat.
4. Add the dressed quail to the skillet and cook until they turn golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side.
5. Remove the skillet from the heat and pour off all the fat.
6. Pour the prepared barbecue sauce over the quail in the skillet, cover, and simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes, turning the birds once.
7. Transfer the cooked quail to a heated platter.
8. Pour the sauce from the skillet over the quail and serve hot.