Turkey Croquettes

THERE’S HARDLY A SOUTHERN ANTEBELLUM COOKBOOK that does not include at least a few croquettes, made with everything from chicken and turkey to ham and seafood to mashed potatoes and boiled grits or rice. Served at breakfast, as a practical midday meal, or even as a side dish for roasts and stews at more formal affairs, the versatile croquette (like the fritter) has been not only the perfect way to use various leftovers but a means for the cook to experiment with all sorts of ingredients and techniques. I was raised eating salmon, crabmeat, ham, chicken, and turkey croquettes on a fairly regular basis (at country clubs, in department store tearooms, at diners, and of course at home), and after a hiatus of some forty years, when the croquette fell into disfavor everywhere except cafeterias, it’s encouraging to see these wonderful oval patties reappearing (often as fritters or “cakes”) in a few upscale Southern restaurants and on dinner tables—sometimes with a creamy mushroom or spicy tomato sauce.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 small onion, minced
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup chicken broth
• 1/2 cup whole milk
• 2 tablespoons dry sherry
• 3 cups coarsely chopped cooked turkey
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 2 large egg yolks
• All-purpose flour for dredging
• 1 1/2 cups fine bread crumbs
• 1 large egg beaten with 3 tablespoons water
• Vegetable oil for frying

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
2. Add the minced onion and sprinkle with flour. Whisk until softened, about 3 minutes.
3. While whisking rapidly, add the chicken broth, whole milk, and dry sherry. Continue whisking until well blended.
4. Add the coarsely chopped cooked turkey, ground nutmeg, salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Stir until well blended.
5. Remove the saucepan from the heat and, while whisking constantly, add the egg yolks. Continue whisking until well blended.
6. Return the saucepan to the heat and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat.
7. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, let it cool, and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.
8. Spread the all-purpose flour and bread crumbs on two separate plates.
9. Shape the turkey mixture into 6 to 8 balls, then lightly roll them in the flour and pat them into oval patties.
10. Dip the patties in the beaten egg wash, then coat them with the bread crumbs.
11. Place the coated patties on a large plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill for about 30 minutes before cooking.
12. In a large, heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of vegetable oil over moderate heat until it sputters when a little water is flicked with the fingers.
13. Add half of the patties to the skillet and fry until golden brown and crispy, about 3 minutes on each side. Drain them on paper towels.
14. Repeat the frying process with the remaining patties.
15. Serve the turkey patties hot.