Smothered Quail

SOUTHERNERS LIKE TO “SMOTHER” EVERYTHING FROM chicken to rabbit to quail—meaning they either simply bake their meat slowly in a vessel with a tight-fitting lid or cook it in an iron skillet with a heavy weight on top. You really don’t have to tenderize quail, but marinating it briefly in a mixture of gin, oil, and seasonings does add a bit of mystery to its slightly gamey flavor. One nice thing about smothering quail in this manner, instead of frying, roasting, or grilling it, is that the likelihood of the tiny bird drying out is minimized.

MAKES: At least 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 12 dressed quail (fresh or frozen)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄2 cup gin
• 1⁄2 cup vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 cup chopped celery leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
• 12 strips bacon
• 12 toast triangles

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Season the quail inside and out with salt and pepper and arrange them in a single layer in a large baking dish.
2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the gin and oil until well blended.
3. Add the chopped onion, celery leaves, dried tarragon, and Tabasco sauce to the gin-oil mixture. Stir to combine.
4. Pour the marinade over the quail in the baking dish, ensuring they are well coated. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, turning the quail twice during marination.
5. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
6. Remove the quail from the marinade and pat them dry with paper towels.
7. In a large cast-iron skillet, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat.
8. Add half of the quail to the skillet and brown them lightly on all sides. Transfer the browned quail to a large, shallow baking dish or casserole. Repeat with the remaining butter and quail.
9. Wrap each quail snugly with a strip of bacon.
10. Strain the marinade over the quail in the baking dish, ensuring they are evenly coated. Cover the dish with aluminum foil.
11. Bake the quail in the preheated oven until they are very tender, which typically takes about 45 minutes.
12. Arrange each quail on a toast triangle on a large serving platter.
13. Serve the quail hot.