Meat Loaf Deluxe

WHILE IT TOOK THE REST OF THE COUNTRY DECADES to bring all-American meat loaf out of the closet as a dish worthy of even the snazziest homes and restaurants, Southerners have always not only loved and respected the loaf but also debated every aspect of its preparation to the point of obsession. The various types of meat, the ingredients that yield the most flavor and moisture, the best fillers for binding, the mixing and baking techniques—no facet of meat loaf escapes intense scrutiny and challenge. There’s a lot that distinguishes Southern meat loaf from most other styles (the cardinal importance of bulk pork sausage, the use of bacon as a flavoring and moisturizing  agent, free form baking for even crustiness, etc.), but perhaps the most defining principle is that great meat loaf requires no gravy—that, in fact, it would be desecrated by gravy. My own recipe for the ultimate meat loaf seems to be slightly modified from year to year, but for the time being, this deluxe version should satisfy even the most finicky Reb.

MAKES: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 5 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 pound large fresh mushrooms, stems finely chopped and caps reserved
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 medium green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
• 2 celery ribs, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
• 1 pound ground beef round
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 pound ground veal
• 1/2 pound bulk pork sausage
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup tomato ketchup
• 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3 large eggs, beaten
• 1 cup bread crumbs soaked in 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3 strips bacon
• Pimento-stuffed green olives, cut in half, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. In a medium skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat.
3. Add the mushroom stems to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes or until most of their liquid has evaporated.
4. Stir in the onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, thyme, and rosemary.
5. Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and simmer for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft and the liquid has evaporated.
6. Place the meats in a large mixing bowl.
7. Add the sautéed vegetables to the mixing bowl and mix lightly.
8. Add the mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, eggs, and breadcrumbs to the mixing bowl.
9. Mix the ingredients in the bowl with your hands until thoroughly blended.
10. Shape the mixture into a firm, thick oval loaf.
11. Place the loaf in a shallow baking or gratin dish.
12. Drape bacon strips over the top of the loaf.
13. Bake the meatloaf in the upper third of the oven for 1 hour.
14. Remove the bacon strips from the top of the meatloaf.
15. Continue baking the meatloaf for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, depending on desired crustiness.
16. Shortly before removing the meatloaf from the oven, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a small skillet over moderate heat.
17. Add the reserved mushroom caps to the skillet and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes or until nicely glazed.
18. Transfer the meatloaf to a large, heated platter.
19. Arrange olives over the top of the meatloaf.
20. Garnish the edges of the platter with the glazed mushroom caps.