Kaiser Rolls

Why this recipe works Originally from Austria, these crusty deli-style rolls are perfect for overstuffed sandwiches or for dipping into soup. Consistently disappointed by pale, dry, store bought versions, we set out to re-create the thin, crisp, golden exterior; moist, sturdy crumb; and signature rosette shape of the real thing. To start, we chose higher- protein bread flour to achieve a roll that was tender yet could support mounds of deli meat. One egg and a bit of vegetable oil reinforced the tenderness and added richness. Many traditional recipes call for malt syrup to add a layer of sweetness and to boost browning, but tasters preferred the subtle flavor of white sugar. To achieve a deep golden sheen without the malt, we brushed on an egg wash before baking. While many delis imprint their rolls with a special stamp, we opted for the traditional rosette shaping method, which was easy with our supple dough, and it didn’t require us to purchase extra equipment.

MAKES: 12 rolls

RISING TIME: 1½ to 2½ hours

BAKING TIME: 30 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 3¼ to 4¼ hours, plus 1 hour cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: 2 rimmed baking sheets, pastry brush

INGREDIENTS:

• 5 cups (27½ ounces) bread flour
• 4 teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 cups (16 ounces) water, room temperature
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 large egg, room temperature
• 4 teaspoons sugar
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water and pinch salt
• 1 tablespoon poppy seeds (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, yeast, and salt. In a 4-cup liquid measuring cup, whisk together water, oil, egg, and sugar until the sugar has dissolved.
2. Using the dough hook attachment on low speed, slowly add the water mixture to the flour mixture. Mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and there are no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Increase the speed to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, about 8 minutes.
3. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form a smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place the dough seam side down in a lightly greased large bowl or container. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let it rise until doubled in size, for 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Press down on the dough to deflate it, then transfer the dough to a clean counter. Press and stretch the dough into a 12 by 6-inch rectangle, with the long side parallel to the counter edge.
5. Using a pizza cutter or chef’s knife, cut the dough vertically into 12 (6 by 1-inch) strips. Cover the strips loosely with greased plastic.
6. Working with one piece of dough at a time (keep the remaining pieces covered), stretch and roll it into a 14-inch rope.
7. Shape the rope into a U with a 2-inch-wide bottom curve and the ends facing away from you.
8. Tie the ends into a single overhand knot, leaving a 1½-inch open loop at the bottom.
9. Wrap one tail over the loop and press it through the opening from the top. Wrap the other tail under the loop and pinch the ends together to seal.
10. Arrange the rolls on the prepared sheets with the pinched side down, spaced about 3 inches apart. Cover them loosely with greased plastic and let them rise until nearly doubled in size and the dough springs back minimally when gently poked with your knuckle, for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
11. Adjust the oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Gently brush the rolls with the egg mixture and sprinkle them with poppy seeds, if using. Bake until golden brown, for 30 to 35 minutes, switching and rotating the sheets halfway through baking.
12. Transfer the rolls to wire racks and let them cool completely, about 1 hour, before serving.