Jekyll Island Fish Cakes

I WAS IN BRUNSWICK, GEORGIA, TO FOLLOW UP ON the town’s claim to be the home of Brunswick stew (dubious), to view the putative “original pot” mounted at the Welcome Center (impressive), and to sample as many bowls of stew as possible (good and bad), when somebody began raving about the fish cakes served at some family-style restaurant over on Jekyll Island. Perched in a faded Naugahyde booth, I was indeed stunned by the light, crispy, flavor-packed cakes, and when I hopped up and asked the hefty woman cook back in the small kitchen what her secret was, she simply muttered, “Mixed fish and clean oil.” What she meant by mixed fish was a combination of lean and fat fish for the right flavor and texture—a principle that had never dawned on me but that made a lot of sense. Sea bass and salmon make a perfect union for these cakes, but you could also combine halibut and bluefish or grouper and trout.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 pound sea bass fillets
• 1⁄2 pound salmon fillets
• 1 whole lemon, cut in half and seeded
• 3 peppercorns
• 1⁄2 bay leaf
• 3 scallions (part of green tops included), minced
• 1⁄2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs
• 1⁄3 cup vegetable oil
• Lemon wedges, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Arrange the sea bass and salmon fillets in a large nonreactive skillet.
2. Add enough water to barely cover the fillets.
3. Squeeze the lemon halves into the water and add the peppercorns and bay leaf.
4. Bring the water to a low simmer, cover the skillet, and cook until the fish flakes easily, about 10 minutes.
5. Transfer the cooked fish to a plate and let it cool completely.
6. Remove any skin from the fish fillets and flake them well using a fork.
7. Place the flaked fish in a mixing bowl.
8. Add all the remaining ingredients (except the vegetable oil and lemon wedges) to the bowl: minced scallions, chopped parsley, beaten egg, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, and dry bread crumbs.
9. Gently mix the ingredients together until they just hold together.
10. Form the mixture into 4 to 6 oval cakes and place them on a plate.
11. In a large, heavy skillet, heat the vegetable oil over moderate heat until a morsel of bread tossed in the pan sizzles.
12. Add the fish cakes to the skillet and cook them until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side.
13. Drain the cooked fish cakes on paper towels.
14. Serve the fish cakes hot with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing over the cakes.