Why this recipe works Good honey-wheat dinner rolls have the softness of white rolls, with satisfying heft and a nutty whole-wheat flavor that’s complemented by a touch of floral sweetness. That said, these appealing rolls rarely hit the mark: Commercial versions are soft but taste artificially sweet, while homemade rolls have good flavor but can be as dense as wet sand. We wanted a flavorful alternative to white rolls that was tender and fluffy and that actually tasted like its namesake ingredients. What makes achieving great whole-wheat breads so difficult is the presence of the bran. This part of the grain, which is removed from white flour, gives whole wheat flour its distinct hearty flavor. But the bran is sharp—so sharp that it cuts through the bread’s gluten structure, leaving you with a dense product. To produce a light, fluffy whole wheat roll, we’d have to incorporate some all-purpose flour—but not so much that we’d lose the roll’s earthy, nutty whole-wheat flavor. We also had success when we made a very wet dough. The excess liquid softened the bran’s edges, ensuring that it didn’t wreak havoc on the dough’s structure. To boost the honey flavor, we used 6 tablespoons instead of the 2 tablespoons that many recipes call for. As a bonus, the liquid honey hydrated the dough further and contributed softness. And to make sure the flavor came through loud and clear, we brushed the warm baked rolls with honey butter. With this finishing touch, our fluffy, pleasantly sweet, nutty-tasting rolls really earned their honey-wheat title.
MAKES: 15 rolls
RISING TIME: 2½ to 3½ hours
BAKING TIME: 25 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 4¼ to 5¼ hours
KEY EQUIPMENT: 13 by 9-inch baking dish, pastry brush
INGREDIENTS:
- 2½ cups (13¾ ounces) whole-wheat flour
- 1¾ cups (8¾ ounces) all-purpose flour
- 2¼ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
- 2¼ teaspoons salt
- 1¾ cups (14 ounces) whole milk, room temperature
- 6 tablespoons (4½ ounces) plus 1 teaspoon honey
- 5 tablespoons (2½ ounces) unsalted butter, melted
- 1 large egg, room temperature
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water and pinch salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Whisk whole-wheat flour, all-purpose flour, yeast, and salt together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk milk, 6 tablespoons honey, 4 tablespoons melted butter, and an egg in a 4-cup liquid measuring cup until the honey has dissolved.
- Using the dough hook on low speed, slowly add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed.
- Increase the speed to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, about 8 minutes.
- Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and knead by hand to form a smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place the dough seam side down in a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let it rise until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours.
- Make a foil sling for a 13 by 9-inch baking dish by folding 2 long sheets of aluminum foil; the first sheet should be 13 inches wide and the second sheet should be 9 inches wide. Lay the sheets of foil in the dish perpendicular to each other, with the extra foil hanging over the edges of the dish.
- Push the foil into the corners and up the sides of the dish, smoothing the foil flush to the dish, then spray the foil with vegetable oil spray.
- Press down on the dough to deflate it. Transfer the dough to a clean counter and stretch it into an even 15-inch log. Cut the log into 15 equal pieces (about 2½ ounces each) and cover loosely with greased plastic. Working with one piece of dough at a time (keep the remaining pieces covered), form it into a rough ball by stretching the dough around your thumbs and pinching the edges together so that the top is smooth.
- Place the ball seam side down on the clean counter and, using your cupped hand, drag it in small circles until the dough feels taut and round.
- Arrange the dough balls seam side down into 5 rows of 3 in the prepared dish, cover loosely with greased plastic, and let them rise until nearly doubled in size and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, 1 to 1½ hours. (Unrisen rolls can be refrigerated for at least 8 hours or up to 16 hours; let the rolls sit at room temperature for 1 hour before baking.)
- Adjust the oven rack to the lower-middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Gently brush the rolls with an egg mixture and bake until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the dish halfway through baking.
- Combine the remaining honey and melted butter in a bowl. Let the rolls cool in the dish for 15 minutes. Using the foil overhang, transfer the rolls to a wire rack and brush them with the honey mixture. Serve warm or at room temperature.
