Short and fleeting, apricot season begins in mid-to late June in the mountains and lasts only a few weeks. During years with particularly wet and cold springs, the apricots may fail to fruit altogether, and we must wait another year to taste them, our anticipation growing ever more. We often pick them in the wild, near old and abandoned homesteads. The older varieties yield smaller fruit, with more concentrated flavor and a heady sweetness that is unrivaled by the larger modern apricots. While I favor eating most stone fruits, like peaches, plums, and cherries, fresh and out of hand, the apricot yearns for cooking. Its soft and mealy flesh benefits from stewing, allowing its honey-like floral notes to blossom.
SERVES: 4 TO 6
INGREDIENTS:
- 2 cups sweet white wine, such as a German Riesling
- ½ cup honey
- 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
- 2 cardamom pods, crushed
- 12 apricots, halved and pitted
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
- Whipped cream, to serve
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Whisk the wine and honey together in a saucepan.
- Toss in the vanilla bean and cardamom pods and bring to a slow simmer over medium heat, until the honey dissolves into the wine.
- Toss in the apricots, cover, and simmer until just tender but not soft or mushy, about 4 minutes.
- Using a slotted spoon, transfer the apricots to a serving dish and cover to keep them warm.
- Bring the poaching liquid to a boil over high heat and let it reduce by half.
- Strain the syrup through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, discard the vanilla and cardamom, and pour the syrup over the apricots.
- Sprinkle the apricots with the mint and serve warm, topped with spoonfuls of whipped cream.
