Fried Oysters

I ALWAYS THOUGHT THAT THE GREATEST FRIED oysters on earth were found in New Orleans—until, that is, somebody took me to Wintzell’s in Mobile, Alabama, and I ordered a jumbo oyster loaf. Wintzell’s, alas, is no more, but at least I had the chance to learn how they fried their glorious oysters—one secret being to always wait for the fat to heat back up to the right temperature before frying another batch. For these oysters, buy the largest grade available, and, for heaven’s sake, do not commit the cardinal sin of overcooking them—not one second more than 2 minutes. The oysters can be served with tartar sauce, mayonnaise, or horseradish cocktail sauce—or, in typical Gulf Coast fashion, can be stuffed into a baguette sliced lengthwise and spread with mayonnaise and pickle relish.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup yellow cornmeal
• 1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1⁄4 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt to taste
• 4 dozen fresh oysters, shucked and drained
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, melted and poured into a bowl
• Peanut oil for frying

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. On a plate, combine the yellow cornmeal, bread crumbs, black pepper, paprika, cayenne pepper, and salt. Mix well.
2. Dip each oyster briefly into the melted butter.
3. Lightly dredge each oyster in the cornmeal mixture, ensuring they are coated evenly. Place the coated oysters on a large platter.
4. In a large, heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of peanut oil to 375°F (190°C) on a thermometer or until a morsel of bread tossed into the pan sizzles quickly.
5. Drop a few oysters at a time into the hot oil, being careful not to overcrowd the skillet. Fry the oysters for no more than 2 minutes or until they turn golden brown, turning them once during frying.
6. Remove the fried oysters from the skillet using a slotted spoon and drain them on paper towels to remove excess oil. Allow the oil to reheat to the proper temperature between batches.
7. Serve the fried oysters piping hot in a cloth-lined basket or serving dish.