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Dulse and potato soup

Traditionally used in both Irish cooking and the cooking of New England, dulse is a mineral-rich sea vegetable with a briny flavor reminiscent of the ocean. You can typically find it in the summer months on long stretches of beach, where it lays stranded by the outgoing tide. Gatherers typically harvest the dulse, then let it dry in the summer sun to preserve it for months to come like any other sea vegetable or herb. You can also purchase dried dulse in most health food stores. Whether you use fresh or dried dulse, take care to look it over carefully, as bits of sand or the little shells of sea creatures may adhere to the dulse’s dark, oblong leaves. I like to serve dulse simply and without fanfare. It’s a humble food that doesn’t benefit from elaborate preparations. Potatoes and chicken broth allow dulse’s delicate, mineral-rich notes to come to the forefront of your palate, where they whisper of the sea.

SERVES: 6 TO 8

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 ounce dried dulse
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 leek, white and light-green parts only, thinly sliced
  • 1 large russet potato, peeled and cubed
  • 1 tablespoon finely ground unrefined sea salt
  • 8 cups chicken bone broth

 

INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Pick over the dulse, removing any stray bits of sand, shells, or other debris.
  2. Place the dulse in a large mixing bowl, cover it with water, and allow it to rehydrate for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and rinse it well.
  3. Melt the butter in a heavy stockpot over medium heat. When it froths, stir in the leek and sauté until barely softened, about 2 minutes.
  4. Stir in the chopped potato, sprinkle in the salt, cover the pot, and allow to cook, undisturbed, for 6 to 8 minutes.
  5. Uncover the pot and stir in the chicken broth. Cover and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 25 minutes.
  6. Puree with an immersion blender until the soup is smooth, then stir in the rehydrated dulse.
  7. Continue to simmer, covered, until heated through, about 5 more minutes.
  8. Serve hot.

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