Diamond Lil’s Lamb Riblets

Cheap Eats, Family Meal, Comfort Food

Sometimes recipes reflect the diversity of a family’s history. This recipe came to me from Hiro Sone, chef/owner of Terra, my favorite restaurant in Napa Valley. Hiro, who is from Japan, is one of the most talented chefs I know. His wife, Lissa Doumani, is from a Lebanese family. Her grandmother, Diamond Lil, got her name because she loved to visit the gambling tables in Las Vegas. Her skills shone in the kitchen, however, and I spent time at her table both as a young boy and many years later over Thanksgiving meals. Every flavor I tasted was so exotic, and she always elevated the main ingredient’s flavor to the maximum no matter how ordinary it may have been. This is Hiro’s interpretation of Diamond Lil’s recipe for a very humble cut, lamb riblets.

SERVES: 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup thinly sliced onions
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
• ½ teaspoon ground cumin
• ½ teaspoon turmeric
• ⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2 large bone-in lamb breasts (4-5 pounds total), fell (papery membrane) removed, trimmed of excess fat, and cut into individual riblets
• 2 cups homemade lamb stock (see recipe) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 cup tomato puree
• Fresh lemon juice

GARNISH

• ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt mixed with 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
• 2 teaspoons sumac
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the onions are beginning to color.
3. Stir in the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the cumin, turmeric and cinnamon until the onions are well coated with the spices.
4. Add the riblets, broth, tomato puree, and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper.
5. Cover the pot and place in the oven. Check the riblets after 1 hour to see if they are tender. If not, continue to cook, checking every 15 minutes.
6. Remove the ribs from the pot. Degrease the sauce and boil until the sauce becomes syrupy.
7. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Return the ribs to the sauce and rewarm.
8. Pile the ribs on a platter, pour over the sauce, and drizzle with the yogurt. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds, sumac (if using), and cilantro, and serve.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• Bone-in goat riblets or ½-inch-thick lamb or goat rib chops (cook rib chops for only about 20 minutes).

COOK’S NOTES:

• Hiro serves these riblets with a stew of eggplant and chickpeas and medallions of lamb tenderloin, but I like them with bulgur or rice and a side salad.
• You can also offer the riblets as finger food for a gathering around the TV or for a cocktail party. Be sure to provide lots of napkins.