Classic Bialys

Why this recipe works Kissing cousin to the bagel, the bialy was first brought to the United States by Jewish immigrants from Poland who settled in lower Manhattan in the early 20th century. Downtown bakeries producing the golden, chewy, onion-and poppy seed–filled rolls eventually became so prevalent that the Lower East Side was once referred to as Bialytown. These salty-savory yeasted rolls boast puffed edges that are at once soft and chewy, and they feature a generous dimple in the middle to hold filling. We wanted to bring Bialytown to our town, but the “authentic” recipes we tried produced bland bialys that were heavy and dense. To really highlight the requisite salty flavor, we used a generous 2 tablespoons of kosher salt in our dough. And to address the texture problems, we tried using all-purpose flour rather than the bread flour that most recipes call for, thinking that its lower gluten content would help tenderize the dough. This brought us closer to our goal, but the rolls were still too tough, so we incorporated two resting periods, one after portioning the dough and forming it into balls, and another after shaping the balls into disks. Resting the dough gave the gluten a chance to relax and the yeast an opportunity to create bigger air pockets within the dough, ultimately producing more tender bialys. Bialys can be stored in a zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 2 days. Wrapped in aluminum foil before being placed in the bag, bialys can be frozen in for up to 1 month. To reheat, wrap the bialys (thawed if frozen) in aluminum foil, place them on a baking sheet, and bake in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes.

MAKES: 12 bialys

RESTING TIME: 30 minutes

RISING TIME: 3 to 3½ hours

BAKING TIME: 15 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 2½ to 3 hours, plus 15 minutes cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: 12-inch skillet, 2 rimmed baking sheets

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE DOUGH

• 4¾ cups (23¾ ounces) all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• 2 cups (16 ounces) water, room temperature
• 1 tablespoon sugar

FOR THE FILLING

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 onions, chopped fine
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon poppy seeds

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together flour, salt, and yeast. In a 4-cup liquid measuring cup, whisk together water and sugar until the sugar has dissolved. Using the dough hook attachment on low speed, slowly add the water mixture to the flour mixture. Mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and there are no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes.
2. Scrape down the bowl as needed. Increase the speed to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, about 8 minutes.
3. Transfer the dough to a well-floured counter. Using your well-floured hands, knead the dough to form a smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds.
4. Place the dough seam side down in a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let it rise until doubled in size, for 1 to 1½ hours. (If refrigerating the dough, it can be stored for at least 8 hours or up to 16 hours. Let the dough sit at room temperature for 1 hour before shaping.)
5. Press down on the dough to deflate it. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and stretch it into an even 12-inch log. Cut the log into 12 equal pieces, approximately 3 ounces each, and cover them loosely with greased plastic wrap.
6. Working with one piece of dough at a time (keeping the remaining pieces covered), form each piece into a rough ball by stretching the dough around your thumbs and pinching the edges together, so that the top is smooth.
7. Place each ball seam side down on a clean counter and, using your cupped hand, drag it in small circles until the dough feels taut and round. Cover the balls loosely with greased plastic wrap and let them rest for 30 minutes.
8. For the filling, heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and salt and cook until softened and golden brown, for about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in poppy seeds.
9. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly flour the parchment. Press each dough ball into a 5-inch round of even thickness and arrange them on the prepared sheets, spaced about 1 inch apart. Cover them loosely with greased plastic wrap and let them rise until puffy, for 15 to 20 minutes.
10. Adjust the oven racks to the upper-middle and lower-middle positions and preheat the oven to 475 degrees Fahrenheit. Grease and flour the bottom of a round 1-cup dry measuring cup (or a 3-inch-diameter drinking glass).
11. Press the cup firmly into the center of each dough round until the cup touches the sheet, making an indentation for the filling. (Re-flour the cup as needed to prevent sticking.)
12. Divide the filling evenly among the bialys, approximately 1 heaping tablespoon each, and smooth it with the back of a spoon.
13. Bake the bialys until they are light golden brown, for 15 to 20 minutes, switching and rotating the sheets halfway through baking. Transfer the bialys to a wire rack and let them cool for 15 minutes. Serve them warm or at room temperature.