Chilled Mobile Thyme Tongue

OVER THE YEARS, I’D SAY I’VE BEEN TO MY SHARE OF gracious garden parties in Mobile, Alabama (perhaps the most memorable one during the annual forty-day carnival preceding Lent), and so often have I seen platters of what locals call thyme tongue among the smoked turkey, rolled veal, creamed oysters in patty shells, and vegetable aspic on the buffet that I’m ready to believe it’s the city’s signature dish. Nobody seems to know when or how thyme tongue became so popular, or why it is religiously served with watermelon rind pickles, but if you’ve always balked at eating beef tongue, this aromatic way of preparing it will dispel any blind prejudice. Just make sure to cook the tongue till it is fork tender, and slice it almost paper thin. The tongue is also delicious stuffed in biscuits with Dijon mustard in place of the more traditional country ham.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• One 31⁄2- to 4-pound fresh beef tongue
• 2 cups white vinegar
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 cup dark brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon dry mustard
• 2 teaspoons dried thyme, crumbled
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 cloves
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
• 1⁄2 lemon, cut in half and seeded
• Watermelon Rind Pickles

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. With a sharp paring knife, make small indentations all over the tongue.
2. Place the tongue in a deep ovenproof baking dish or enameled casserole just large enough to hold it.
3. In a medium saucepan, combine all the remaining ingredients except the watermelon rind pickles. Stir until the sugar and mustard are dissolved.
4. Bring the marinade to a boil for about 1 minute, stirring, then pour it evenly over the tongue.
5. Let the tongue cool, cover it, and marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours, turning it two or three times.
6. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
7. Return the tongue to room temperature and cover it tightly with aluminum foil or a lid.
8. Bake the tongue until it is easily pierced with a fork, about 3 hours.
9. Let the tongue cool to room temperature in its liquid.
10. Transfer the tongue to a cutting board and slit the skin on the underside. Peel off the skin and cut away the root, small bones, and any gristle.
11. Return the tongue to the marinade and refrigerate it, covered, until ready to serve.
12. To serve, transfer the chilled tongue to a platter or cutting board and carve it into thin slices.
13. Arrange the slices on a chilled platter garnished with watermelon rind pickles.