Appams

These spongy rice and coconut pancakes are popular in the Christian communities in the southern Indian province of Kerala, where they are served with spicy curries and vegetable stews. However, they are also popular on their own with fresh chutneys or, for a breakfast treat, with coconut and sugar or syrup.

MAKES: 10–12 pancakes

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tbsp. semolina
• 2 2/3 cups water
• 2 cups rice flour
• 1 tsp. sugar
• 1 tsp. rapid-rise yeast
• 1/2 cup full-fat coconut milk
• 1 tsp. sea salt

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a pan over moderate heat, combine the semolina and 2 cups of water. Stir continuously and bring it to a boil.
2. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking and stirring until a smooth paste is formed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let it cool.
3. Add the rice flour, sugar, and yeast to the cooled semolina mixture.
4. Stir in the coconut milk and the remaining water to form a thick batter.
5. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the batter rise in a warm place for 3-4 hours, or until it becomes bubbly and doubles in volume.
6. Very carefully stir in the sea salt without deflating the batter.
7. Heat an oiled griddle or nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until it becomes very hot.
8. Add a ladleful of batter to the hot griddle or skillet and spread it out by swirling the pan to form a thin pancake.
9. Cover the pancake and cook for 3-4 minutes on one side only, allowing the base to become lightly browned while the top remains slightly moist.
10. Remove the pancake from the pan, keep it warm, and repeat the process with the remaining batter.

VARIATIONS:

APPAMS WITH ONION & CHILE

• Prepare the basic recipe, adding a topping: cook 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds in 1 tablespoon oil until they pop. Add 1 finely chopped medium red onion, cook for 5 minutes. Add 1 sliced green chile and 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro and salt. Cook the appam for 3 minutes, top with a heaping tablespoon of the onion mixture, flip, and cook the second side for 2 minutes.

SWEET APPAMS

• Prepare the basic recipe, using only a pinch of salt. Just before cooking stir 4 tablespoons sugar into the batter. Cook for 3–5 minutes on one side only. Serve with agave or fruit syrup, shredded fresh coconut, and fruit.

PALAPPAM (COCONUT APPAMS)

• Prepare the basic recipe, stirring in an additional 1/4 cup coconut milk (plus 4 tablespoons agave syrup for sweet palappams) to the batter just before cooking. Cook for 3–5 minutes on one side only.