Ful Medammes

Ful medammes is the Egyptian breakfast par excellence, enjoyed by poor and rich alike, on the street or at home. Often, people take a pot to their local street ful medammes vendor to have him fill it with ful to eat in the comfort of their home. I give here both the classic Egyptian version and a Syrian one I used to have in Aleppo at Hajj Abdo’s simple corner café in the heart of the city’s Christian quarter. His remains the best I have ever had.

SERVES: 4

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE FUL

• • 2 cups (400 g) dried large fava beans, soaked overnight in plenty of water with 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • Sea salt

FOR THE EGYPTIAN STYLE FUL

• • 3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
  • Sea salt
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium firm-ripe tomato (3½ ounces/100 g), cut into small cubes
  • 2 to 3 scallions, thinly sliced, to taste
  • A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley, most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • Lemon wedges
  • Pita bread, for serving

FOR THE SYRIAN STYLE FUL

• • ½ cup (125 ml) tahini
  • 1 clove garlic, minced to a fine paste
  • Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
  • 2 tablespoons Aleppo or Turkish red pepper paste, diluted with 3 tablespoons water (optional)
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
  • Pita bread, for serving
  • Sliced tomatoes and scallions, for serving

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. TO START THE FUL:

• Drain and rinse the favas under cold water.
• Put in a large pot and add 4 cups (1 liter) water.
• Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2½ to 3 hours, until the beans are very tender and the cooking water has thickened.
• Check after 1 hour or so to make sure the beans are not drying out. If they are, add a little boiling water. Don’t add too much as you will not be draining the cooked beans at the end.
• Once done, add salt to taste—you do not want to do this until the very end, otherwise the skins will harden.

2. TO SERVE THE FUL EGYPTIAN STYLE:

• Mash the beans coarsely inside the pot, then spoon them into a large serving bowl.
• Mix in the garlic and more salt if needed.
• Wipe the sides of the bowl clean, then drizzle all over with olive oil.
• Pile the diced tomato in the center, then the scallions, then the parsley.
• Sprinkle the cumin all around the edges over the beans and serve with the lemon wedges and pita bread.

3. TO SERVE THE FUL SYRIAN STYLE (like Hajj Abdo):

• Mix the tahini, garlic, and lemon juice, then gradually add ¾ cup (180 ml) water until the tarator is like heavy cream.
• You will notice the tahini thickening at first but don’t worry, it will loosen as you go.
• Pour the tarator into a large serving bowl.
• Add the hot beans. If desired, spoon a little diluted pepper paste all over the top.
• Drizzle with olive oil.
• Serve immediately with pita bread, tomatoes, and scallions.