Japanese Milk Bread

Why this recipe works Japanese milk bread, or Hokkaido milk bread, may look like any white loaf. But this plush bread is distinctly different from American sandwich bread; it boasts a superlatively fluffy texture and a unique shaping method. A staple in Asian bakeries, the loaf is composed of portions of dough rolled thin and formed into tight spirals. This shaping organizes the gluten strands into coils, which bake into feathery sheets. Here’s why: When dough is kneaded, the proteins link up in a random way. Standard shaping organizes the proteins into a matrix on the exterior of the dough, but they remain random in the interior. Shaping the dough instead into two spirals before placing in the pan builds an orderly structure throughout, creating this bread’s gossamer-thin layers. The bread also employs a special technique called tangzhong to yield its delicate crumb. This method incorporates extra moisture into the dough in the form of a flour-and-water paste. Typically, a well-hydrated dough like this one is hard to shape. The paste avoids this. We microwaved a portion of the flour with the water and then mixed the paste into the dough; flour can absorb twice as much hot water as cold, so heating the two together allowed us to pack in moisture for a pillowy crumb without making the dough too slack to work with. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, increase the shaped rising time by 20 to 30 minutes and start checking for doneness 10 minutes earlier than advised in the recipe. We do not recommend mixing this dough by hand.

MAKES: 1 loaf

RESTING TIME: 15 minutes

RISING TIME: 1½ to 2½ hours

BAKING TIME: 30 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 3½ to 4½ hours, plus 3 hours cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: stand mixer, 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan, rolling pin, instant-read thermometer, pastry brush

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups (11 ounces) plus 3 tablespoons bread flour
• ½ cup (4 ounces) water
• ½ cup (4 ounces) cold whole milk
• 1 large egg
• 1½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus 1 tablespoon melted

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a small bowl, whisk together 3 tablespoons of flour and water until no lumps remain. Microwave the mixture, whisking every 20 seconds, until it thickens to a stiff, smooth, pudding-like consistency that forms a mound when dropped from the end of the whisk into the bowl. This usually takes about 40 to 80 seconds.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together milk, egg, and the flour paste until smooth. Add yeast and the remaining 2 cups of flour. Using the dough hook attachment on low speed, mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, which usually takes about 2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.
3. Add sugar and salt to the dough and mix on low speed for about 5 minutes. With the mixer running, add softened butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, and mix until the butter is fully incorporated, which takes about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium-low and knead until the dough is smooth, elastic, and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, about 5 minutes.
4. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and knead it by hand to form a smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place the dough seam side down in a lightly greased large bowl or container. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap and let it rise until doubled in size, usually for 1 to 1½ hours.
5. Grease an 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan. Press down on the dough to deflate it. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter, with the side that was against the bowl now facing up. Gently press and roll it into a 24 by 4-inch rectangle, with the short side parallel to the counter edge. Using a pizza cutter or chef’s knife, cut the rectangle lengthwise into 2 equal strips.
6. Roll one strip of dough into a snug cylinder, pinch the seam closed, and place it seam side down in the prepared pan, with the spiral against the long side of the pan. Repeat the process with the remaining strip of dough, placing it adjacent to the other strip in the pan.
7. Cover the pan loosely with greased plastic wrap and let the dough rise until the loaf is level with the lip of the pan and the dough springs back minimally when gently poked with your knuckle. This usually takes about 30 minutes to 1 hour.
8. Adjust the oven rack to the lowest position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake the loaf until it is deep golden brown and registers 205 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit, which takes about 30 to 35 minutes. Rotate the pan halfway through baking. Let the loaf cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then remove it from the pan and transfer it to a wire rack. Brush the top and sides of the loaf with melted butter. Let it cool completely, about 3 hours, before serving.