South Carolina Hash

WHEREAS IN NORTH CAROLINA NO PORK BARBECUE restaurant worth its peppery vinegar sauce would serve “que” without a little Brunswick stew on the side, the age-old tradition at barbecue pits in South Carolina is a side dish of thick meat gravy over rice or grits simply called hash. Depending on the area of the state, hash can be made with all beef, all pork, organ meats, or a combination of these primary ingredients, and while nobody agrees on just what constitutes an authentic hash, at hash cook-offs held everywhere from Gaffney to Union to the Sea Islands near Charleston, at least there seems to be a consensus that any hash must be cooked slowly in a cast-iron pot till it’s the consistency of a smooth meat purée (or, as one expert put it, “thick baby food”). Adventurous travelers in the state will look for the hash at Willard’s Hash and Barbecue in Gaffney, Maurice’s Piggy Park in Columbia, and Mr. B’s Barbecue on Johns Island. At home, you might want to try my version, served over boiled rice or grits or simply on a bun.

MAKES: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds lean beef round or rump, trimmed of excess fat
• 1 pound lean pork, trimmed of excess fat
• 1/4 pound pork liver (optional)
• 1 large onion, diced
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Place the beef, pork, and optional liver in a heavy cast-iron pot.
2. Add enough water to cover the meats.
3. Bring the pot to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 3 hours or until the meats are almost falling apart.
4. Transfer the cooked meats to a large pan.
5. Allow the meats to cool enough to handle, then pull them into small bits or shreds.
6. Place the shredded meats and diced onion in a food processor.
7. Grind the mixture coarsely in the food processor.
8. Return the ground meat and onion mixture to the cast-iron pot.
9. Add the butter, tomato paste, salt, and freshly ground black pepper to the pot.
10. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring frequently.
11. Cook until the mixture resembles a thick gravy consistency.