Smithfield Ham and Veal Rolls

SMITHFIELD, VIRGINIA, HAS BEEN CONSIDERED THE undisputed birthplace of Southern-style country hams for at least three hundred years, and today, still, a legal statute protecting the tradition dictates that a genuine Smithfield ham must be cured, treated, smoked, and processed within the small town’s borders. Of course, producers of ham from the commercial giant Gwaltney to the smallest farmer have come up with every way imaginable to cook the noble ham and use it in numerous recipes, but nothing impressed me more on one of my visits to the area than the way the mother of a relatively minor ham producer teamed the ham with veal to make these delectable rolls fit for the most distinguished formal dinner. Since Smithfield hams can be exorbitantly expensive these days, by all means feel free, as I do, to substitute any respectable baked country ham.

MAKES: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
• 1/2 cup finely chopped scallions (white and light green parts)
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 cups soft bread crumbs
• 1 cup finely chopped parsley leaves
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 2 tablespoons chicken broth
• Four boneless veal steaks (about 2 pounds)
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1/2 pound thinly sliced cooked Smithfield ham
• 1 tablespoon butter, melted
• 1/2 cup dry white wine

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
2. In a large skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat.
3. Add the chopped scallions and minced garlic to the skillet and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes.
4. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the bread crumbs, chopped parsley, beaten egg, and chicken broth. Stir until well blended and set aside.
5. Use a mallet or rolling pin to pound the veal steaks to a 1/2-inch thickness.
6. Spread equal amounts of Dijon mustard on each veal steak.
7. Top each veal steak with a slice of ham.
8. Roll up the veal steaks jelly-roll style and secure them with wooden toothpicks.
9. Place the rolled veal steaks, seam side down, on a rack in a shallow baking pan.
10. Brush each veal roll with melted butter.
11. Bake the veal rolls in the preheated oven until tender, for about 30 to 35 minutes.
12. Transfer the veal rolls to a serving platter, remove the toothpicks, and cut each roll into 1/2-inch slices.
13. In the same baking pan used for cooking the veal rolls, add the dry white wine over moderately high heat. Stir to loosen the pan drippings.
14. Pour the wine and pan drippings over the sliced veal rolls.
15. Serve the veal rolls with the pan drippings as a sauce.