Rustic Wheat Berry Bread

Why this recipe works We love the flavor and texture that whole-wheat flour gives bread. Some artisan bakers take this concept further, making breads with flour that they grind from whole wheat berries. You might think a bread made with homemade flour sounds a bit unnecessary, and we sure did—until we tried it. While whole-wheat flour has a tinge of bitterness, freshly ground wheat berries give bread a robust flavor with superlatively toasty, sweet notes. To start our own recipe for a rustic loaf made from wheat berries, we needed to figure out the best way to pulverize them. We thought the blender would work, but we had to grind the berries in batches to achieve an even texture. We were also concerned that the generous amount of homemade whole-wheat flour in our recipe (45 percent of the total flour weight) might compromise the structure. So we decided on a two-part solution: First, we soaked our wheat berries in water (for 12 to 24 hours) to soften the bran; the mixture then transformed quickly into a paste in the food processor. Second, we combined our mash with bread flour and a sponge, both of which contributed to a strong gluten network. You can find whole wheat berries in the natural- or bulk-foods section of the grocery store. You can substitute a round banneton, or proofing basket, for the towel-lined colander.

MAKES: 1 loaf

RESTING TIME: 12 hours 20 minutes

RISING TIME: 3 to 4 hours

BAKING TIME: 35 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 17 to 18 hours, plus 3 hours cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: food processor, water-filled spray bottle, large linen towel, 5-quart colander, baking stone, 2 (9-inch) disposable aluminum pie plates, 2 quarts lava rocks, pizza peel, lame, instant-read thermometer

INGREDIENTS:

FOR SOAKER

• 1¼ cups (8 ounces) wheat berries
• 1 cup (8 ounces) water, room temperature

FOR THE SPONGE

• ¾ cup (4⅛ ounces) bread flour
• ½ cup (4 ounces) water, room temperature
• ¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

FOR THE DOUGH

• ¼ cup (2 ounces) water, room temperature
• 1 cup (5½ ounces) bread flour
• 2½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1¼ teaspoons salt

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Combine wheat berries and water in a bowl, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and let it sit at room temperature until the grains are fully hydrated and softened, which takes at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Stir all the ingredients in a 4-cup liquid measuring cup with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature until the sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (the sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
3. Process the soaked wheat berries, remaining soaking liquid, and water in a food processor until the grains are finely ground, which takes about 4 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed.
4. Whisk flour and yeast together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir the wheat berry mixture and honey into the sponge with a wooden spoon until well combined. Using the dough hook on low speed, slowly add the sponge mixture to the flour mixture and mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, which takes about 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl as needed. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rest for 20 minutes.
5. Add oil and salt to the dough and knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and elastic and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, which takes about 5 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover it tightly with plastic, and let it rise for 30 minutes.
6. Using a greased bowl scraper or your fingertips, fold the dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 45 degrees and fold the dough again; repeat turning the bowl and folding the dough 6 more times (for a total of 8 folds). Cover it tightly with plastic and let it rise for 30 minutes. Repeat the folding and rising process. Fold the dough again, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rise until it nearly doubles in size, which takes 1 to 1½ hours.
7. Mist the underside of a large linen or cotton tea towel with water. Line a 5-quart colander with the towel and dust it evenly with flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter (the side of the dough that was against the bowl should now be against the counter). Press and stretch the dough into a 10-inch round, deflating any gas pockets larger than 1 inch.
8. Working around the circumference of the dough, fold the edges toward the center until a ball forms. Flip the dough ball seam side down and, using your cupped hands, drag in small circles on the counter until the dough feels taut and round and all the seams are secured on the underside of the loaf.
9. Place the loaf seam side up in the prepared colander and pinch any remaining seams closed. Loosely fold the edges of the towel over the loaf to enclose it, then place the colander in a large plastic garbage bag. Tie or fold under the open end of the bag to fully enclose it. Let it rise until the loaf increases in size by about half and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, which takes 30 minutes to 1 hour (remove the loaf from the bag to test).
10. One hour before baking, adjust the oven racks to the lower-middle and lowest positions. Place a baking stone on the upper rack and place 2 disposable aluminum pie plates filled with 1 quart of lava rocks each on the lower rack. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil. Remove the colander from the plastic bag, unfold the edges of the towel, and dust the top of the loaf with flour. If any seams have reopened, pinch them closed before dusting with flour. Lay a 16 by 12-inch sheet of parchment paper on top of the loaf. Use one hand to support the parchment and loaf, invert the loaf onto the parchment, and place it on the counter. Gently remove the colander and towel. Transfer the parchment with the loaf to a pizza peel.
11. Carefully pour ½ cup of boiling water into one disposable pie plate of preheated rocks and close the oven door for 1 minute to create steam. Meanwhile, hold the lame (scoring tool) concave side up at a 30-degree angle to the loaf and make two 7-inch-long, ½-inch-deep slashes with a swift, fluid motion along the top of the loaf to form a cross.
12. Working quickly, slide the parchment with the loaf onto the baking stone and pour the remaining ½ cup of boiling water into the second disposable pie plate of preheated rocks. Bake until the crust is dark brown and the loaf registers 205 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit, which takes 35 to 40 minutes, rotating the loaf halfway through baking. Transfer the loaf to a wire rack, discard the parchment, and let it cool completely, about 3 hours, before serving.