Rosemary Focaccia

Why this recipe works Focaccia can easily disappoint when it turns out heavy, thick, and flavorless. We wanted a light, airy loaf, crisp-crusted and topped with just a smattering of herbs. For a bubbly crumb, we turned to a no knead method to build our dough. We employed a high proportion of water to flour and a long resting period, which let the natural enzymes in the wheat replicate the effect of kneading. As with our Almost No-Knead Bread and our No-Knead Brioche, we don’t knead our focaccia per se. But we do fold it while it rises to prevent squat loaves. Gently turning the dough over itself at regular intervals accomplishes three things: It brings the wheat proteins into closer proximity with one another, keeping the process going at maximum clip; it aerates the dough, replenishing the oxygen that the yeasts consume during fermentation; and it elongates and redistributes the bubbles. After turning our dough three times in the process, we ended up with a well-risen focaccia with a tender, moist crumb. Olive oil is a key ingredient in focaccia, but we found that if we added it straight to the dough, it could turn the bread dense and cake-like. Instead, we baked the bread in round cake pans, where a couple of tablespoons of oil coating the exterior could be contained. Before baking, we poked the dough surface 25 to 30 times to pop large air bubbles and allow any extra gas to escape. Then we sprinkled the dough with a healthy dose of chopped fresh rosemary. Out of the oven, our focaccia boasted a crackly, crisp bottom, a deeply browned top, and an interior that was open and airy. It is important to use fresh, not dried, rosemary. Be sure to reduce the temperature immediately after putting the loaves in the oven.

MAKES: two 9-inch round loaves

RESTING TIME: 7 hours

RISING TIME: 1½ to 2 hours

BAKING TIME: 25 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 9¾ to 10¼ hours, plus 30 minutes cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: baking stone, 2 (9-inch) round cake pans, pastry brush

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE SPONGE

• ½ cup (2½ ounces) all-purpose flour
• ⅓ cup (2⅔ ounces) water, room temperature
• ¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

FOR THE DOUGH

• 2½ cups (12½ ounces) all-purpose flour
• 1¼ cups (10 ounces) water, room temperature
• 1 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
• Kosher salt
• ¼ cup (1¾ ounces) extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in a large bowl with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until the sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (the sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
2. For the dough: Stir flour, water, and yeast into the sponge with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rest for 15 minutes.
3. Stir 2 teaspoons of salt into the dough with a wooden spoon until thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.
4. Using a greased bowl scraper (or a rubber spatula), fold the dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 45 degrees and fold the dough again; repeat turning the bowl and folding the dough 6 more times (a total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic and let it rise for 30 minutes. Repeat the folding and rising process. Fold the dough again, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rise until nearly doubled in size, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
5. One hour before baking, adjust the oven rack to the upper-middle position, place a baking stone on the rack, and heat the oven to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Coat two 9-inch round cake pans with 2 tablespoons of oil each. Sprinkle each pan with ½ teaspoon of salt. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter and dust the top with flour. Divide the dough in half and cover loosely with greased plastic. Working with one piece of dough at a time (keep the remaining piece covered), shape it into a 5-inch round by gently tucking under the edges.
6. Place the dough rounds seam side up in the prepared pans, coat the bottoms and sides with oil, then flip the rounds over. Cover loosely with greased plastic and let the dough rest for 5 minutes.
7. Using your fingertips, gently press each dough round into the corners of the pan, taking care not to tear the dough. (If the dough resists stretching, let it relax for 5 to 10 minutes before trying to stretch it again.) Using a fork, poke the surface of the dough 25 to 30 times, popping any large bubbles. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of rosemary evenly over the top of each loaf, cover loosely with greased plastic, and let the dough rest until slightly bubbly, about 10 minutes.
8. Place the pans on the baking stone and reduce the oven temperature to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake until the tops are golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through baking. Let the loaves cool in the pans for 5 minutes. Remove the loaves from the pans and transfer to a wire rack. Brush the tops with any oil remaining in the pans and let cool for 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATION:

FOCACCIA WITH CARAMELIZED RED ONION, PANCETTA, AND OREGANO 

• Cook 4 ounces finely chopped pancetta in 12-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until well rendered, about 10 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to medium bowl. Add 1 chopped red onion and 2 tablespoons water to fat left in skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened and lightly browned, about 12 minutes. Transfer onion to bowl with pancetta and stir in 2 teaspoons minced fresh oregano; let mixture cool completely before using. Substitute pancetta mixture for rosemary.