Pan-Grilled Veal Chops with Tomato-Blue Cheese Butter and Cherry Tomato Salad

In a Hurry, Grass-Fed Veal, Fit for Company

Certain flavors have an affinity for each other: tomato and blue cheese, basil and tomato, blue cheese butter and grilled meat. With these combinations in mind, I came up with a couple of simple condiments that enhance veal chops, which can be somewhat bland. The tomato-blue cheese butter is ideal with grass-fed veal, but also goes well with the lighter formula-fed veal.
There are many types of blue cheeses, from milder Danish blues to the full-flavored and pungent Roquefort, and trying different varieties is a great way to experiment with this recipe. I like the blue cheese from Rogue Creamery in Oregon and often use a younger, milder one called Oregon Blue, but you may enjoy the stronger Rogue River Blue with veal as well. I also like making this butter with Stilton and Gorgonzola.
Cherry tomatoes remain sweet and flavorful long after other tomatoes have gone out of season, but if it’s the middle of winter and you can find only tasteless ones, skip the salad. In the summer, substitute ripe heirloom tomatoes, cut into ½-inch dice, for the cherry tomatoes.

SERVES: 4

INGREDIENTS:

TOMATO-BLUE CHEESE BUTTER

• 3½ ounces blue cheese (see headnote), diced
• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened
• 1 tablespoon minced shallot
• 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (see Sources) or ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• ½ teaspoon vodka (optional; see Cook’s Notes)

VEAL CHOPS

• 4 1¼- to 1½-inch-thick veal rib or T-bone loin chops (2-2½ pounds total)
• 1 large garlic clove, cut in half
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil

CHERRY TOMATO SALAD

• 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes or diced vine-ripened tomatoes
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot or scallion
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
• 6 fresh basil leaves, cut crosswise into thin shreds
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Make the Tomato-Blue Cheese Butter: Pulse the blue cheese in a food processor until it has the texture of coarse meal. Add the remaining ingredients and process to form a homogeneous paste. Spread a 12-×-8-inch sheet of plastic wrap on a work surface and scrape the butter onto the plastic wrap. Shape and roll the mixture into a log about 2 inches in diameter; seal the butter in the wrap. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour, or until ready to use. (You can make the butter up to a day ahead and refrigerate it. You can also freeze the butter for up to 2 months.)
2. Rub the chops on both sides with the cut sides of the garlic. Discard the garlic. Season the chops with about ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper per side. Set aside.
3. No more than 30 minutes before you are ready to cook the veal chops, make the cherry tomato salad (if made too far in advance, it will become watery): Toss the tomatoes, shallot, oil, vinegar, and basil together in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or ridged grill pan over high heat. Brush the chops with the oil and add to the pan, making sure not to overcrowd the chops; if necessary, cook them in 2 batches. Sear for 2 to 3 minutes, or until nicely browned on the first side. Flip and sear the other side for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-high and cook for 3 minutes more per side, or until the internal temperature registers 125°F to 130°F on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare or 130°F to 135°F for medium. Remove the chops to a warm platter and top each with a ¼-inch-thick pat of Tomato-Blue Cheese Butter. Let rest for 5 minutes, loosely covered with aluminum foil.
5. Smear the mostly melted butter over the chops, divide the cherry tomato salad among the plates, and serve.

COOK’S NOTES:

• The vodka in the Tomato-Blue Cheese Butter recipe enhances the flavors of the tomato and cheese. If you wish, leave it out.
• The butter makes enough for 8 to 12 veal chops. It is also excellent over grilled steaks and thick-cut pork chops.
• The veal chops can be grilled outdoors over a charcoal or gas grill. Follow the instructions