Mountain Sweetbreads in Mushroom Cream Sauce

NEVER ONES TO SHY AWAY FROM ORGAN MEATS LIKE most other Americans, rural Southerners relish sweetbreads (the thymus glands of calves, lambs, and pigs) as much as chitlins, liver, heart, and even “mountain oysters” (pig’s testicles). Never was I served more sublime veal sweetbreads than at a cozy retreat called The Orchard Inn, up in Highlands, North Carolina, almost on the intersecting borders of South Carolina and Georgia. Without question, the most delicate, creamy sweetbreads are from young calves and lambs; those from older animals and hogs are tougher and much stronger in flavor. Today, veal sweetbreads are available fresh or frozen in more and more markets. Do remember not only that they must be soaked overnight in acidulated water and the tough membranes removed before cooking, but also that they are the most perishable of all organ meats and should be prepared within 24 hours of purchase. Since nothing seems to enhance sweetbreads like fresh lemon juice, I like to serve a bowl of seeded lemon wedges on the side.

MAKES: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds veal sweetbreads, soaked overnight in acidulated water and cleaned
• 1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
• 4 scallions (white parts only), chopped
• 2 cups sliced mushrooms
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 cup chicken broth
• 1 cup half-and-half
• Toast points

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Drain the soaked sweetbreads and place them in a large saucepan with the lemon juice and enough salted water to cover.
2. Bring the saucepan to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Transfer the sweetbreads to a bowl of ice water.
4. Cut away all membranes from the sweetbreads and separate them into 2-inch pieces.
5. Pat dry the sweetbreads with paper towels, then cut them into 1⁄2-inch slices.
6. Season the sweetbreads with salt and pepper.
7. In a large skillet, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat.
8. Add half of the sweetbreads to the skillet and brown them for 2 minutes on each side.
9. Transfer the browned sweetbreads to a plate and repeat the process with the remaining sweetbreads.
10. Add the remaining butter to the skillet, then add the scallions and mushrooms. Cook and stir until softened, about 3 minutes.
11. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture in the skillet and continue to cook and stir for 2 minutes.
12. Add the chicken broth and half-and-half to the skillet. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for about 3 minutes.
13. Add the browned sweetbreads to the skillet and simmer for 10 minutes.
14. Serve the sweetbreads on toast points arranged on individual plates.