Lamb Tongues Escabeche

Cheap Eats, Fit for Company
Escabeche— in which a tangy black sauce of vinegar, chopped vegetables, and olive oil is spooned over cooked food, such as fried fish, and allowed to sit, and then served at room temperature—is popular in many Spanish-speaking countries around the globe. This recipe comes from Ryan Farr, a San Francisco chef and self-taught butcher, a trade that many young culinarians are now pursuing. Trained as a chef, Ryan found that he really enjoyed the butcher’s arts and began making sausages and tasty treats like pork rinds. He poaches the tongues in a full-flavored stock containing spices and vinegar, which gives the tongues a mild pickled taste. He then marinates them in a delicate mixture of sherry vinegar, cooked carrots, and shallots. While this recipe requires a few days to complete, it is well worth the effort.

SERVES: 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pounds lamb tongues
• 1½ cups kosher salt (I use Diamond Crystal)

POACHING LIQUID

• 3 quarts water
• 2 onions, halved
• 2 heads garlic, halved horizontally
• 2 carrots, peeled and halved
• 8 fresh thyme sprigs, tied in a bunch with butcher’s twine
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
• 1 cup sherry vinegar
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1½ cup olive oil

SHERRY VINAIGRETTE

• 1 cup thinly sliced peeled carrots
• ½ cup thinly sliced shallots
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• ½ cup sherry vinegar
• ¼ cup water
• ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Prepare the lamb tongues: Scrub the tongues under cold water until clean; pat dry. Place in a plastic storage container. Pack in the salt, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
2. Poach the lamb tongues: The next day, combine all the poaching liquid ingredients in a large pot. Remove the tongues from the salt and rinse thoroughly. Add the tongues to the poaching liquid. Slowly bring the liquid to a low simmer, being careful not to let it come to a full boil. Simmer for 1½ hours, or until the tongues are very tender. Remove the tongues with a slotted spoon; transfer the liquid to a bowl or other container. When the tongues are cool enough to handle, peel off the skin. Return the tongues to the poaching liquid and cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. Make the Sherry Vinaigrette: The following day, remove the tongues from the liquid; discard the liquid. Pat the tongues dry and cut in half lengthwise. Heat ¼ cup of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tongues, cut side down, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes; work in batches if necessary. Place the tongues in a casserole or shallow nonreactive pan.
4. In the same skillet, reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining ¼ cup oil. Add the carrots, shallots, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper and cook until the carrots are crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Add the lemon juice, vinegar, and water. Bring to a simmer, then immediately pour over the tongues. Toss with the parsley and lemon zest. Cool to room temperature before serving. (The tongues can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated overnight; bring to room temperature before serving.)
5. Serve over sturdy salad greens, such as curly endive, frisée, or chicory, using some of the sauce to dress the greens. Alternatively, serve over boiled, chilled, and sliced potatoes, tossed with some of the sauce and garnished with hard-boiled eggs and chopped parsley or watercress.

COOK’S NOTES:

• Lamb tongues are an inexpensive cut that freeze well. Look for them in Mexican and Middle Eastern markets or ask a lamb producer. They’re great warm or cold and have a delicate, faintly lamby flavor.