Hanoi Rice Noodles and Grilled Pork (Bun Cha Hanoi)

Meat as a Condiment, Cheap Eats

A few years ago, my wife, Nancy, and I visited Vietnam as part of a group of culinarians led by the Vietnamese cookbook author Mai Pham. One of our most memorable meals was a mixed grill of pork served at a Hanoi restaurant called Bun Cha Hang Manh. Grilled thin slices of pork shoulder and pork sausage patties were accompanied by rice vermicelli and the ever-present Vietnamese table salad of herbs and greens. This recipe is adapted from Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table by Mai Pham.

SERVES:  4 to 6

INGREDIENTS:

MARINADE:

• 3 scallions, sliced into thin rings
• 2 shallots, minced
• 1½ tablespoons Asian fish sauce
• 1½ teaspoons light brown sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• ¾ pound boneless Boston butt (pork shoulder butt), sliced across the grain then cut into 1-inch-long-×-¼-inch-wide strips
• ¾ pound ground pork
• ⅓ cup finely chopped onion

TABLE SALAD:

• 2 heads red leaf lettuce, leaves separated and washed
• ½ cucumber, julienned
• 2 cups bean sprouts
• 12 fresh mint sprigs
• 12 fresh basil sprigs (preferably Thai)
• 6 fresh purple or green basil sprigs
• 24 fresh cilantro sprigs

VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE:

• 6 fresh Thai bird chiles or 2 serrano chiles, stemmed, or to taste
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 1 cup warm water
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• ⅔ cup Asian fish sauce
• ¼ cup finely shredded peeled carrot

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. MARINADE:

• Combine the scallions, shallots, fish sauce, brown sugar, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl and stir to blend.
• Divide the marinade equally between two bowls.
• Add the oil and pork strips to one bowl, toss the strips to evenly coat, and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours.
• In the second bowl, combine the marinade with the ground pork and onion and mix well.
• Shape the mixture into patties about 2 inches wide and ½ inch thick.
• Set them aside in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

2. GRILL OR BROIL:

• Set up a charcoal or gas grill or broiler for medium-high heat, or preheat the broiler. (You can also fry the meat in a skillet.)
• Grill or broil the pork slices and pork patties until the meat is cooked through and the edges of the pork slices are nicely charred, 2 minutes per side for slices and 3 minutes per side for patties.
• Transfer to a serving plate.

3. COOK VERMICELLI:

• Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil.
• Cook the vermicelli until al dente, 4 to 5 minutes.
• Drain, rinse, and cool.

4. TABLE SALAD:

• Arrange all the ingredients in attractive rows on a large platter.

5. VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE:

• Cut the chiles into thin rings.
• Set one third of the chiles aside.
• Place the remaining chiles, the garlic, and sugar in a mortar and, with the pestle, pound into a coarse, wet paste. (If you don’t have a mortar, chop with a knife.)
• Transfer to a small bowl and add the water, lime juice, and fish sauce.
• Stir well to dissolve the sugar.
• Add the reserved chiles and the carrots.
• Set aside for 10 minutes to mellow.

6. SERVE:

• Set the table with a platter of the cold rice noodles, the table salad, and a bowl of half the dipping sauce.
• Divide the remaining dipping sauce among four to six small bowls.
• Serve each guest a small bowl of dipping sauce, and each a bowl to eat from.
• Slice the patties.
• To serve, invite guests to place a few slices of pork and the sliced pork patties in their dipping sauce and let soak for a few minutes, then place some noodles, salad, and meat in their bowls and drizzle some of the remaining sauce on top.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS:

• For leaner but less tasty cuts, you can use thin-sliced pork loin strips or blade-end loin or country-style ribs, cut into thin strips. For a more succulent treat, use thin slices of fresh pork belly, cut into strips.

COOK’S NOTES:

• If you can’t find Thai basil, use regular basil.
• Another way to eat bun cha Hanoi is to place some noodles in the center of a lettuce leaf. Top with meat, herbs, and a drizzle of sauce. Wrap and eat out of hand, dipping the end of the roll into the dipping sauce, if desired.