Ham Croquettes

WHY HAM CROQUETTES, ONCE A PRIZED STAPLE IN every Southern department store tearoom, country club clubhouse, and smart home dining room, fell into disfavor years ago continues to baffle me. “It’s a disgrace,” says renowned Southern food writer Jean Anderson, “and I suspect it’s because the health police tried to frighten people away from anything fried. I loved ham and chicken croquettes as a child, and I love them now.” Well, I haven’t seen much evidence lately that Southerners are very frightened of fried foods. Like Jean, I love any style of croquettes, and I think it’s high time this sapid dish underwent a rebirth—in homes and restaurants. These ham croquettes were traditionally served with mustard or tomato sauce on the side. If you really want something exceptional, make them with well-aged country ham—minus the salt in the recipe. For perfect texture, the ham mixture really should be refrigerated overnight before being formed into patties.

MAKES: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 tablespoons (1⁄2 stick) butter
• 3 scallions (white parts only), finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus extra for dredging
• 1 1⁄2 cups milk
• 4 cups coarsely chopped cooked ham
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1⁄4 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 large egg, beaten with 2 tablespoons water
• 2 cups fine bread crumbs
• Peanut oil for frying

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat.
2. Add the finely chopped scallions and flour to the saucepan, whisking until soft and well blended, for about 2 minutes.
3. While whisking rapidly, add the milk to the saucepan until well blended.
4. Add the coarsely chopped cooked ham to the saucepan, stirring well, and remove from the heat.
5. While whisking rapidly, add the egg yolks to the saucepan. Return the saucepan to the heat.
6. Add the dried sage, salt, and freshly ground black pepper to the saucepan, whisking until well blended.
7. Scrape the mixture into a dish, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
8. Divide the mixture into 6 balls and shape them into smooth oval patties.
9. Dredge the patties lightly in flour, then dip them briefly into the beaten egg wash.
10. Coat the patties with bread crumbs, ensuring they are thoroughly coated, and place them on a plate until ready to fry.
11. In a large, heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of peanut oil over moderately high heat for about 1 minute.
12. Fry the patties in the skillet until golden brown, approximately 3 minutes on each side.
13. Remove the fried patties from the skillet and drain them on paper towels.
14. Serve the patties piping hot.