Gulf Coast Frogs’ Legs

UNBEKNOWNST TO MOST AMERICANS, FROGS’ LEGS are a treasured delicacy all along the Gulf Coast, from Florida to Louisiana—as well as in much of Arkansas. Both the green frogs and bullfrogs that proliferate in this region form the basis for a veritable small industry. While I’ve had very elegant frogs’ legs braised in white wine at finer restaurants, frying or sautéing them in oil or butter is by far the most popular preparation. Although nothing equals the sweet, delicate flavor of fresh frogs’ legs, frozen ones, usually packaged in connecting pairs ranging from 4 to 6 ounces a piece, are more and more available in specialty food markets. (If, by chance, you do find fresh ones, choose those that are plump and slightly pink.) Since their flavor is so subtle, frogs’ legs should be cooked as simply and briefly as possible; overcooking only causes them to toughen.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 1⁄2 cup cider vinegar
• 1⁄2 cup water
• 1 medium onion, sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 12 pairs dressed, plump frogs’ legs, each pair tied together with twine at the first joints
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 1⁄2 cup regular buttermilk
• Vegetable oil for frying
• Seeded lemon wedges for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a large bowl, combine the cider vinegar, water, onion, and garlic. Stir until well blended.
2. Add the frogs’ legs to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let them marinate in the refrigerator for about 2 hours.
3. In another bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, egg, and buttermilk. Stir until a soft batter forms.
4. Drain and rinse the frogs’ legs, then pat them dry with paper towels.
5. In a large, heavy skillet, heat about 1⁄4 inch of vegetable oil over moderately high heat.
6. Dip the frogs’ legs in the batter, ensuring they are evenly coated, and fry them in batches for 3 to 4 minutes on each side or until golden brown.
7. Drain the fried frogs’ legs on paper towels to remove excess oil.
8. Remove and discard the twine from the frogs’ legs.
9. Serve the frogs’ legs hot, garnished with seeded lemon wedges.