Rewarms Well, Great Leftovers
Tagines, the stews of Morocco, are made in earthenware pots with cone-shaped lids that share the same name. Because the fuel supply was traditionally dear in this arid land, everything was made in the single pot, without browning or searing. The intense flavors come from long, slow cooking and the copious use of aromatic herbs and spices. Moroccan cooking often blends sweet flavors with savory, as in this dish, in which the cooked shanks are glazed with honey. In true Moroccan style, the stew and the lamb shanks are served over couscous. If you want to be thoroughly authentic, eat with your hands only. Because I love to eat these shanks in warm months, I have
chosen to grill-braise them outdoors. See Cook’s Note for the more traditional indoor method.
SERVE: 4
INGREDIENTS:
- 3 cups chopped onions
- 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
- 1 tablespoon sweet Hungarian paprika
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 1 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- ½ teaspoon ground coriander
- ½ teaspoon ground cumin
- 1 teaspoon dried mint
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- ¼ cup finely chopped cilantro stems (reserve the leaves for garnish)
- 4 cups water
- 1 cup drained canned diced tomatoes
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or more to taste
- 4 meaty lamb shanks (about 4 pounds total), trimmed of most external fat, each tied with 3–4 loops of butcher’s twine
- 2 cups cooked chickpeas (freshly cooked or canned)
- 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
- 2 cups 1½-inch chunks peeled turnips
- 2 cups instant couscous
HONEY GLAZE
- ¼ cup honey
- 3 tablespoons braising liquid (from above)
- 1 teaspoon harissa (optional), store-bought or homemade (recipe follows)
- 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon dried mint
GARNISH
- Fresh cilantro leaves (from above)
- Harissa (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Set up a charcoal or gas grill for indirect grilling (see [>] for more on grilling).
- Toss the onions and garlic with the spices, mint, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, and the cilantro stems in a large Dutch oven until well combined. Stir in the water, tomatoes, and lemon juice, then add the shanks. Place the pot on the area of the grill without a fire. Cover the pot, close the grill lid, and cook for about 1 hour, until the meat is fork-tender. If not tender, continue to simmer, covered, checking every 15 minutes. It may take an additional 30 minutes to 1 hour. Transfer the shanks to a platter.
- Add the chickpeas, carrots, and turnips to the pot and place over direct heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and degrease the surface. Taste the liquid. If it’s too thin, remove the vegetables, return the pot to the heat, bring the liquid to a boil, and reduce to concentrate the flavors. Return the vegetables to the pot. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. (The shanks and sauce can be cooled and refrigerated separately overnight; bring the shanks to room temperature, add to the sauce, and reheat over low heat on the stovetop.)
- Meanwhile, prepare the couscous according to the directions on the box and keep warm.
- Glaze: Combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the mixture forms a light syrup. Brush the glaze over the shanks and grill them over direct medium heat, turning and basting them with the glaze, until the glaze bubbles and darkens with a few black spots, 5 to 7 minutes total; take care not to burn the glaze. Remove immediately.
- To serve family style, mound the couscous in a large shallow serving bowl. Spoon over the vegetables and plenty of braising sauce. Remove the twine from the shanks, place on top, and scatter with the cilantro. Serve with harissa, if
desired.
ALTERNATIVE CUTS:
- Goat shanks, whole lamb or goat neck, or whole bone-in lamb or goat breast.
COOK’S NOTE
- To braise these shanks indoors, follow the directions in step 2 for assembling the braising liquid. Add the shanks, cover, and cook in a 350°F oven for 1 to 2 hours, checking after 1 hour and every 15 minutes after that, or until the meat is fork- tender. Remove the shanks, add the chickpeas and vegetables, and cook on top of the stove for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the carrots and turnips are tender. You can serve as is or glaze the shanks under the broiler, 4 to 5 inches from the heat source, turning and basting them frequently, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until bubbly and darkene.




