Fig and Fennel Bread

Why this recipe works Having mastered many of the techniques for creating the ideal structure, chew, and flavor in our breads, we put our heads together to come up with a novel artisan-style bread to wow company. We wanted a grown-up loaf to accompany cheese and charcuterie plates, and we agreed that the sophisticated combination of sweet, earthy figs and complementary fennel was a distinguished flavor profile. Simply folding chopped dried figs and fennel seeds into a white loaf worked, but the bread was timid, so we swapped out some of the bread flour for rye flour, which added interest. As we learned when developing our recipe for Pain de Campagne, mixing more of the dough’s total flour weight into the sponge gave us even more depth of flavor and structure, which was beneficial to our rye-enhanced loaf. Using precisely 32 percent of the flour in this sponge gave the bread the best chew; any less and the bread was too delicate. Happy with the texture and refined flavors of our bread, we turned our attention to the crust. To develop a more rustic appearance and a unique crunch, we rolled the loaf in cornmeal before its final proof. While any variety of dried figs will work, we especially liked the flavor of Calimyrna figs in this bread. Use light or medium rye flour; dark rye flour is overpowering. Toast the fennel seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant (about 1 minute), and then remove the pan from the heat so the fennel seeds don’t scorch.

MAKES: 1 loaf

RESTING TIME: 6 hours 20 minutes

RISING TIME: 3½ to 4½ hours

BAKING TIME: 40 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 12 to 13 hours, plus 3 hours cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: couche, water-filled spray bottle, rimmed baking sheet, baking stone, 2 (9-inch) disposable aluminum pie plates, 2 quarts lava rocks, pizza peel, flipping board, lame, instant-read thermometer

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE SPONGE

• 1 cup (5½ ounces) bread flour
• ¾ cup (6 ounces) water, room temperature
• ⅛ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

FOR THE DOUGH

• 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (6¼ ounces) bread flour
• 1 cup (5½ ounces) light or medium rye flour
• 1½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• 1 cup (8 ounces) water, room temperature
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 cup dried figs, stemmed and chopped coarse cornmeal

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Stir all the ingredients in a 4-cup liquid measuring cup with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature until the sponge has risen and begins to collapse, which takes about 6 hours (the sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
2. Whisk bread flour, rye flour, and yeast together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir water into the sponge with a wooden spoon until well combined. Using the dough hook on low speed, slowly add the sponge mixture to the flour mixture and mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, which takes about 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl as needed. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rest for 20 minutes.
3. Add fennel seeds and salt to the dough and knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly sticky, which takes about 5 minutes. Reduce the speed to low, slowly add figs, ¼ cup at a time, and mix until mostly incorporated, which takes about 1 minute. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover it tightly with plastic, and let it rise for 30 minutes.
4. Using a greased bowl scraper or your fingertips, fold the dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 45 degrees and fold the dough again; repeat turning the bowl and folding the dough 6 more times (for a total of 8 folds). Cover it tightly with plastic and let it rise for 30 minutes. Repeat the folding and rising process every 30 minutes, 3 more times. After the fourth set of folds, cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rise until nearly doubled in size, which takes 1 to 1½ hours.
5. Mist the underside of a couche (a fabric used for proofing bread) with water, drape it over an inverted rimmed baking sheet, and dust it liberally and evenly with cornmeal. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter (the side of the dough that was against the bowl should now be against the counter). Press and stretch the dough into a 10-inch square, deflating any gas pockets larger than 1 inch.
6. Fold the top and bottom corners of the dough diagonally into the center of the square and press gently to seal. Stretch and fold the upper and bottom thirds of the dough toward the center and press gently to seal.
7. Stretch and fold the dough in half toward you to form a rough 12 by 5-inch diamond-shaped loaf and pinch the seam.
8. Gently slide your hands underneath each end of the loaf and transfer it seam side up to the prepared couche. On either side of the loaf, pinch the couche into a pleat, then fold the remaining edges of the couche over the loaf to cover it completely. Carefully place the sheet inside a large plastic garbage bag. Tie or fold under the open end of the bag to fully enclose it. Let it rise until the loaf increases in size by about half and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, which takes 30 minutes to 1 hour (remove the loaf from the bag to test).
9. One hour before baking, adjust the oven racks to the lower-middle and lowest positions. Place a baking stone on the upper rack, place 2 disposable aluminum pie plates filled with 1 quart of lava rocks each on the lower rack, and heat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a pizza peel with a 16 by 12-inch piece of parchment paper, with the long edge perpendicular to the handle. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil.
10. Remove the sheet with the loaf from the bag. Unfold the couche, pulling from the ends to remove the pleats. Dust the top of the loaf with cornmeal. If any seams have reopened, pinch them closed before dusting with cornmeal. Gently push with the side of a flipping board, roll the loaf over so it is seam side down. Using your hand, hold the long edge of the flipping board between the loaf and couche at a 45-degree angle, then lift the couche with your other hand and flip the loaf seam side up onto the board. Invert the loaf seam side down onto the prepared pizza peel. Reshape the loaf as needed, tucking the edges under to form a taut diamond shape.
11. Carefully pour ½ cup of boiling water into one disposable pie plate of preheated rocks and close the oven door for 1 minute to create steam. Meanwhile, holding a lame (scoring tool) concave side up at a 30-degree angle to the loaf, make three 6-inch-long, ½-inch-deep diagonal slashes with a swift, fluid motion across the top of the loaf, starting and stopping about ½ inch from the edges and spacing the slashes about 2 inches apart.
12. Working quickly, slide the parchment with the loaf onto the baking stone and pour the remaining ½ cup of boiling water into the second pie plate of preheated rocks. Bake until the crust is dark brown and the loaf registers 205 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit, which takes 40 to 45 minutes, rotating the loaf halfway through baking. Transfer the loaf to a wire rack, discard the parchment, and let it cool completely, about 3 hours, before serving.