Chilled Spiced Beef

WHETHER IT’S CALLED SPICED ROUND IN NASHVILLE, spice roll in Tidewater Virginia, or daube de boeuf in New Orleans, chilled spiced beef served in thin slices has been deemed one of the South’s most elegant dishes since the mid-nineteenth century. While it’s been said that the cooking process originated at meat packing companies in Nashville as a way of preserving beef before refrigeration came along, I’ve always suspected that it goes back much further, to England and France, where I’ve been eating cold, spicy beef dishes for as long as I can remember. While the dish is time-consuming and slightly tricky to prepare, it’s one that can highlight a formal buffet table like nothing else. Bottom or top beef round is often used, but I find that no cut has more flavor than brisket. With the beef, I like to serve an assortment of mustards.

MAKES: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• One 4-pound brisket of beef (thin cut)
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
• 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1⁄2 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• Salt and cayenne pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Rinse the brisket well under cold running water.
2. In a small bowl, combine the herbs and spices (parsley, rosemary, thyme, cloves, allspice, nutmeg).
3. Add salt and cayenne pepper to the herb/spice mixture and mix well.
4. Rub the herb/spice mixture over all the surfaces of the brisket.
5. Roll up the brisket lengthwise as tightly as possible.
6. Firmly bind the rolled brisket with kitchen string.
7. Wrap the brisket in cheesecloth and tie it securely.
8. Wrap the brisket in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 6 hours.
9. Remove the plastic wrap from the brisket.
10. Place the rolled beef in a kettle that is just large enough to hold it.
11. Cover the beef with cold water.
12. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the beef is fork-tender, which takes about 5 hours. Add more water if necessary to keep the beef covered.
13. Transfer the beef to a deep bowl.
14. Pour a little cooking broth on top of the beef.
15. Fit a plate atop the meat.
16. Place 8 to 10 pounds of weight (such as large canned goods or bricks) on the plate to press the meat down.
17. Place the bowl in the refrigerator and chill for 12 hours.
18. To serve, remove the cheesecloth and string from the chilled beef.
19. Cut the cold beef against the grain into thin slices.
20. Arrange the slices on an attractive platter and serve.