Chicken-Fried Steak and Gravy

IN ARKANSAS AND KENTUCKY, THEY TEND TO CALL IT country-fried steak; in Maryland, Virginia, and the Carolinas, it’s smothered steak; but down in Mississippi and Alabama, folks generally know it as chicken-fried steak. Whatever term is used, cube steaks that are battered and fried in oil and bacon drippings and served with a creamy gravy (“smothered”) were a Southern specialty long before western pioneers and Texas cattlemen corrupted the dish’s reputation by producing meat that was not unlike whitleather in taste and texture. As anybody from Dixie knows, the secret to any superb chicken-fried steak is not only the quality of the beef and gravy but the principle of never overcooking the meat—rarely more than about two minutes on each side. Technically, the best cube steak is cut from top or bottom beef round (not chuck) and tenderized (or cubed) by running it through a tenderizing machine once or twice. When buying these steaks, I don’t hesitate a second to ask the butcher which cut of meat was used, refusing any that is not top or bottom round.

MAKES: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE STEAKS 

• 1⁄4 cup milk
• 1 large egg
• 1 cup dry bread crumbs
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Cayenne pepper to taste
• Four 4-ounce beef cube steaks
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons bacon drippings

FOR THE GRAVY 

• 2 tablespoons bacon drippings
• 1 large onion, minced
• 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 cup milk
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the milk and egg until well blended.
2. In another bowl, mix the dry bread crumbs, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper until well blended. Transfer the mixture to a plate.
3. Dip each steak into the milk and egg mixture, coating both sides.
4. Coat the steaks with the bread crumb mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Place the coated steaks on a plate.
5. In a large heavy cast-iron skillet, heat the vegetable oil and bacon drippings over moderately high heat until hot.
6. Add 2 of the steaks to the skillet and cook for about 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Transfer the cooked steaks to a plate and keep them warm. Repeat with the remaining 2 steaks.
7. Reserve the pan drippings to make the gravy.
8. For the gravy, heat the bacon drippings in the skillet over moderate heat. Add the minced onion and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute.
9. Sprinkle the flour over the onion and stir for an additional minute, scraping up any brown bits from the pan.
10. Add the heavy cream, milk, salt, and pepper to the skillet. Whisk briskly until the gravy is thickened and smooth, which takes about 6 to 7 minutes.
11. To serve, place the steaks on individual plates and ladle the gravy over each steak.