Alabama Hog Pot

ONCE WAS THE TIME THROUGHOUT MUCH OF THE South when hog pots featuring at least four types of pork were just as popular at big church suppers, political rallies, and fund-raising cookouts as pit-cooked barbecue. Today, however, you don’t see many old-fashioned hog pots in our cholesterol-obsessed society, which I find sad, since people who’ve never eaten pig’s feet and ears slowly simmered with pork shoulder, lean salt pork, sausage, cabbage, and numerous other greens and seasonings don’t know what they’ve been missing. This particular hog pot, which I’ve adapted for my own home kitchen, was inspired by a spectacular one fired up at a huge church benefit that a friend invited me to attend in Greenville, Alabama. In the South, you’ll have no trouble finding packaged pig’s feet and perfectly cleaned pig’s ears in most supermarkets; elsewhere, any good butcher should be able to fill your order and prepare the cuts for cooking. This hearty dish requires nothing more than a tart green salad or vinegary coleslaw, some form of cornbread, and plenty of cold beer.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 pig’s feet, cleaned
• 2 pig’s ears, cleaned
• 1⁄4 pound lean salt pork
• 1⁄4 cup vegetable oil
• 1 pound boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 celery rib, chopped
• 1 carrot, scraped and chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 medium head green cabbage (discolored leaves discarded), cored, quartered, and coarsely chopped
• 1⁄2 pound smoked pork sausage (such as kielbasa), sliced
• 1 cup dry white wine

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Place the pig’s feet in a large, heavy pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer, skimming off any scum from the surface. Cover and cook for 2 hours.
2. Add the ears and salt pork to the pot. Add more water to cover if necessary. Return to a simmer and cook until the feet and ears are tender, which should take about 1 to 1 1⁄2 hours.
3. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, remove any loose bones from the feet. Cut the ears and salt pork into thin strips and set aside.
4. Wash out and dry the pot. Add the vegetable oil and heat over moderate heat.
5. Brown the pork cubes in the oil on all sides. Remove the browned pork cubes from the pot and add them to the pig’s feet and other meat.
6. Add the chopped onion, celery, and carrot to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften, which should take about 5 minutes.
7. Add the meats to the pot with the vegetables.
8. Scatter the chopped cabbage over the top of the pot.
9. Arrange the sliced sausage over the cabbage. Season with salt and pepper.
10. Add the dry white wine plus enough water to cover all the ingredients in the pot.
11. Bring to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the pork cubes are tender and the cabbage is very soft, which should take about 1 hour.