Westerners don’t think of sea vegetables when they think of snacks, but this kelp preparation deserves worldwide popularity. It is crisp, a little chewy, and full of the hearty taste of the sea. This technique is a time-tested way to preserve other ingredients such as dried seaweed paper, perilla leaves, and chili peppers, in addition to kelp. The traditional method is time-consuming and labor-intensive: The kelp is brushed with a thick layer of glutinous rice porridge and then dehydrated in the wind and sun for a few days. In my New York kitchen, I skip the sun and wind and use a food dehydrator, and the kelp is ready to fry in a matter of hours. When the kelp is fried, the glutinous rice porridge expands, covering the seaweed like snow. When you bite into it, the rice porridge is crispy and chewy and the kelp releases its intoxicating ocean fragrance. The kelp must be fried just long enough: If overcooked, it will be bitter; if undercooked, it will be difficult to chew. After frying a few pieces, you will get the hang of it. Be sure to prepare more than you think you’ll need. These go fast!
SERVES: 10 to 12
INGREDIENTS:
- 2 ounces (about 2 wide strips) dried kelp (dasima)
- ¼ cup glutinous rice flour (chapssal-garu)
- 1 cup water
- 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
- 2 cups corn oil
- Sugar
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Wipe both sides of the dried kelp with a damp kitchen towel or paper towels to remove any dust. Use scissors to cut the kelp into 4-x-6-inch pieces.
- Combine the rice flour and water in a small saucepan, mix well with a wooden spoon, and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the mixture turns thick, milky, and sticky, about 3 minutes. Then continue to cook, stirring, until the porridge becomes a little more fluid and a little translucent and bubbles pop up, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
- Put the kelp on a cutting board. Brush one side of each piece with some of the porridge. Repeat, so the kelp has two coatings of porridge on one side. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds.
- Put the coated kelp pieces on the trays of your food dehydrator, taking care that they don’t touch and stick to each other. Set on the vegetable setting, about 140°F, and dry until breakable, 5 to 6 hours. (At this point, you can put the dried kelp in a zipper-lock bag and freeze it for up to 3 months.)
- Fry the kelp: Heat the oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat until the temperature reaches 330°F. Turn the heat down to medium. Add 2 or 3 kelp strips to the hot oil, coated side down, and press down with a spatula to flatten the kelp while it cooks. The dried rice porridge will puff like a white flower. Turn the kelp over with tongs after 30 seconds and press down again with the spatula. Continue to cook, turning every 30 seconds, until the kelp is very crisp and light brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary so the kelp doesn’t brown too quickly. If it overcooks, it will become black and bitter. If the fried kelp is not crunchy enough, fry it again briefly. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet or platter to drain. Sprinkle with a little sugar, about ¼ teaspoon per strip.
- Repeat with the remaining kelp strips. Let cool and serve. To save for later use, transfer to an airtight container or zipper-lock bag and freeze for up to 1 month. There’s no need to defrost before serving
