Mexican Beef Brisket and Winter Squash Chili

Family Meal, Fit for Company, Fit for a Crowd, Great Leftovers

SERVES: 8 to 10, with leftovers

Chili con carne has its origins in the slow-cooked stews of Mexico. One such dish, chili Colorado, was no doubt made in clay pots cooked long and slow over small fires or in bakers’ ovens. No need for multiple steps here: Just combine all the ingredients and cook (if you have a slow cooker, this is an ideal recipe, but do brown the bacon first). Enjoy in warmed bowls with the garnishes of your choice; roll up the warm tortillas and dip them into the juices. If there are leftovers, wrap them in tortillas for tacos, burritos, or enchiladas or, if you’re feeling ambitious, use as a filling for tamales.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 dried ancho chiles
• 2 cups boiling water
• 6 ounces bacon, diced
• 4 cups chopped onions
• 5 pounds first-cut beef brisket, cut into 3-inch chunks
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped (optional)
• 6 garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano (I use Mexican)
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 2 tablespoons chili powder (I use Gebhardt)
• 1 14.5-ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes with green chiles (I use Muir Glen)
• 1 12-ounce bottle Mexican beer, plus more if needed
• 1 bunch cilantro, stems chopped, leaves saved for garnish (1½ cups total)
• 4 fire-roasted mild green chiles, such as Anaheim, peeled, seeded, and diced, or one 7-ounce can diced
• 4 fire-roasted green chiles
• 3 cups 2-inch chunks peeled and seeded butternut or banana squash

GARNISH

• Fresh cilantro leaves (from above)
• Finely chopped onions
• Peeled, seeded, and sliced avocados
• Shredded Monterey Jack cheese
• Warm corn or flour tortillas

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.  Tear the dried ancho chiles apart, discard the seeds and stems, and place in a small bowl. Pour over the boiling water and soak until soft, at least 30 minutes, or up to several hours.
2.  Preheat the oven to 325°F.
3.  Fry the bacon in a large Dutch oven over medium heat until it begins to brown. Add the onions and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. Season the beef with salt and pepper. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the beef.
4.  Place the soaked chiles and about ½ cup of the soaking liquid in a blender (save the remaining liquid to add to the pot later if needed). Add the jalapeños (if using), garlic, cumin, oregano, coriander, chili powder, and 2 teaspoons salt. Blend to form a puree, then add to the pot along with the tomatoes, beer, cilantro stems, and green chiles. Stir well, cover, place in the oven, and bake for 2 hours. If the chili becomes too dry during cooking, add some of the reserved chile soaking liquid or more beer. The meat is done when it’s fork-tender. If the meat is not yet fork-tender, return the covered pot to the oven and check it every 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in the squash and bake for 20 minutes more, or until the squash is tender.
5.  Remove the pot from the oven. Degrease the chili (or, better still, cool, refrigerate overnight, and then remove the congealed fat; reheat to serve). Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in bowls with the garnishes on the side, and the warmed tortillas to roll and dip.

ALTERNATIVE CUTS

• Any cut of chuck roast, rump roast, bottom sirloin flap (bavette), or short ribs (reduce the cooking time for these cuts by 30 minutes, then start checking for doneness). Beef cheeks, oxtails, or shank (you may need to increase the cooking time by an hour or so). You can also use sirloin tip or a bottom round or eye-of-round roast if the meat has at least moderate marbling. Also good with equivalent cuts of bison.

COOK’S NOTES

• Other good dried chiles to use are guajillo, mulato, California, and New Mexico.

LEFTOVERS

• For a delightful summer soup, dilute leftover chili with beef or chicken stock, then add cooked pinto beans or kidney beans, diced carrots, fresh corn, and green beans.
• Turn leftover chili into a hearty winter soup by diluting it with beef or chicken stock, then adding cooked kidney or pinto beans and cubed carrots, turnips, potatoes, celery, and rutabaga.
• Also see the recommendations in the headnote.