Seeded Ficelle

Why this recipe works The French word ficelle means “string,” thus the loaf that takes this name resembles a long, skinny, stick-like baguette made from a “string” of dough. Because it is so thin, a loaf of ficelle maximizes the ratio of crackly crust to tender, chewy interior, making it perfect for slicing for hors d’oeuvres, dipping in oil, or cutting down the middle to make elegant sandwiches. As a starting point, we scaled down our Bakery-Style French Baguette recipe—and eliminated the whole-wheat flour—to make four petite sticks. Ficelles are sometimes rolled in seeds before being proofed and baked, and we liked the crunch and flavor that a mixture of poppy, sesame, and fennel seeds provided. Since these small loaves bake through quickly, we once again added a small amount of diastatic malt powder to boost exterior browning during the loaves’ short stint in the oven. And although we typically take the temperature of our breads to help assess doneness, we chose to forgo using a thermometer here—these loaves are so thin that it’s difficult to insert the probe into them and get an accurate reading. Instead, we relied on a clear visual cue: When the loaves are deep golden brown and the crust is dry and crackly, they’re done baking. If you can’t find King Arthur all-purpose flour, you can substitute bread flour. This recipe makes enough dough for four loaves, which can be baked anytime during the 16- to 48- hour window after placing the dough in the refrigerator in step 2. The ficelles are best eaten within 4 hours of baking.

MAKES: 4 loaves

RESTING TIME: 1 to 1½ hours

RISING TIME: 18½ to 19 hours

BAKING TIME: 13 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 21¼ to 22¼ hours, plus 15 minutes cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: 2 rimmed baking sheets, couche, water-filled spray bottle, baking stone, pizza peel, flipping board, lame, 2 (16 by 12-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pans

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups (10 ounces) King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¾ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
• ¾ teaspoon diastatic malt powder (optional)
• 1 cup (8 ounces) water, room temperature
• 3 tablespoons poppy seeds
• 3 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 2 teaspoons fennel seeds

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Whisk flour, salt, yeast, and malt powder, if using, together in bowl of stand mixer. Using dough hook on low speed, slowly add water to flour mixture and mix until cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, 5 to 7 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Transfer dough to lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise for 30 minutes.
2. Using greased bowl scraper (or your fingertips), fold dough over itself by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 45 degrees and fold dough again; repeat turning bowl and folding dough 6 more times (total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic and let rise for 30 minutes. Repeat folding and rising every 30 minutes, 3 more times. After fourth set of folds, cover bowl tightly with plastic and refrigerate for at least 16 hours or up to 48 hours.
3. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter, press into 8-inch square (do not deflate), and divide in half. Return 1 piece of dough to bowl, cover tightly with plastic, and refrigerate (dough can be shaped and baked anytime within 48-hour window). Divide remaining dough in half crosswise, transfer to lightly floured rimmed baking sheet, and cover loosely with greased plastic. Let rest until no longer cool to touch, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
4. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time (keep remaining piece covered), roll into loose 3- to 4-inch-long cylinder on lightly floured counter. Cover loosely with greased plastic and let rest for 30 minutes.
5. Combine poppy seeds, sesame seeds, and fennel seeds in a bowl. Spread half of the seed mixture on a second rimmed baking sheet; reserve the remaining seed mixture for the second half of the dough. Mist the underside of a couche with water, drape it over a rimmed baking sheet that has been inverted, and dust it evenly with flour.
6. Gently press 1 dough cylinder into a 6 by 4-inch rectangle on a lightly floured counter, with the long side parallel to the counter edge. Fold the upper quarter of the dough toward the center and press gently to seal. Rotate the dough 180 degrees and repeat the folding step to form an 8 by 2-inch rectangle.
7. Fold the dough in half toward you, using the thumb of your other hand to create a crease along the center of the dough, sealing with the heel of your hand as you work your way along the loaf. Without pressing down on the loaf, use the heel of your hand to reinforce the seal (do not seal the ends of the loaf).
8. Cup your hand over the center of the dough and roll the dough back and forth gently to tighten, forming a dog-bone shape. Starting at the center of the dough and working toward the ends, gently and evenly roll and stretch the dough until it measures 15 inches long by 1 inch wide. Moving your hands in opposite directions, use a back and forth motion to roll the ends of the loaf under your palms to form sharp points.
9. Mist the loaf with water on all sides and roll it in the seed mixture, pressing gently to adhere.
10. Transfer the loaf seam side up to the prepared couche. On either side of the loaf, pinch the edges of the couche into a pleat, then cover loosely with a large plastic garbage bag.
11. Redistribute the seeds on the sheet into an even layer. Repeat steps 6 through 10 with the remaining piece of dough and place it on the opposite side of the pleat. Fold the edges of the couche over the loaves to cover completely, then carefully place the sheet inside the plastic bag. Tie or fold under the open end of the bag to fully enclose. Let the loaves rise until nearly doubled in size and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, 30 minutes to 1 hour (remove from bag to test with knuckle).
12. One hour before baking, adjust the oven rack to the lower-middle position, place the baking stone on the rack, and heat the oven to 500 degrees. Line a pizza peel with a 16 by 12-inch piece of parchment paper, with the long edge of the paper perpendicular to the handle. Unfold the couche, pulling from the ends to remove pleats. Gently push with the side of the flipping board and roll 1 loaf over, away from the other loaf, so it is seam side down.
13. Using your hand, hold the long edge of the flipping board between the loaf and the couche at a 45-degree angle, then lift the couche with your other hand and flip the loaf seam side up onto the board.
14. Invert the loaf seam side down onto the prepared pizza peel, about 2 inches from the long edge of the parchment, then use the flipping board to straighten the loaf. Repeat with the remaining loaf, leaving at least 3 inches between loaves.
15. Holding the lame concave side up at a 30-degree angle to the loaf, make three 4-inch-long, ½-inch-deep slashes with a swift, fluid motion along the length of the loaf. Repeat with the second loaf.
16. Slide the parchment with the loaves onto the baking stone. Cover the loaves with stacked inverted disposable pans and bake for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the pans, rotate the loaves, and continue to bake until the loaves are deep golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack, discard the parchment, and let cool for 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.