Ciabatta

Why this recipe works Unless your source is an artisanal bakery, most loaves of ciabatta just aren’t very good. We wanted homemade ciabatta with an airy texture, full flavor, and perfect lift. Ciabatta, like many rustic breads, starts with a sponge. (We settled on 30 percent sponge and 70 percent dough as the ideal proportion for the right tang for this bread.) But beyond the sponge, ciabatta has unique characteristics. First, the dough is extremely wet—even more hydrated than other rustic breads—which gives this loaf its signature holes. Second, ciabatta has a light, springy texture; we achieved this by using all-purpose flour instead of the bread flour we use for most rustic breads. Because this dough is so hydrated, it’s necessary to begin kneading with the stand mixer’s paddle attachment instead of the dough hook, and to incorporate a series of folds to reinforce the structure and make it easier to work with. While we wanted large holes in our bread, we could end up with a loaf that was more air than bread if they were too large. In researching this problem, we found that some ciabatta recipes included milk. And indeed, ciabatta made with milk boasted unifom medium-size bubbles. Curious about why this addition worked, we learned that milk contains a protein fragment called glutathione, which weakens the gluten strands slightly. A small amount of milk reduced the size of the bubbles just enough. As you make this bread, keep in mind that the dough is wet and very sticky. The key to manipulating it is working quickly and gently; rough handling will result in flat, tough loaves. When possible, use a bowl scraper or a large rubber spatula to move the dough. If you have to use your hands, make sure they are well floured. We do not recommend mixing this dough by hand.

MAKES: 2 loaves

RESTING TIME: 6 hours

RISING TIME: 2 to 2½ hours

BAKING TIME: 25 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 9½ to 10 hours, plus 3 hours cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: stand mixer, baking stone, pizza peel, water-filled spray bottle, instant-read thermometer

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE SPONGE

• 1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
• ½ cup (4 ounces) water, room temperature
• ⅛ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

FOR THE DOUGH

• 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• ½ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
• ¾ cup (6 ounces) water, room temperature
• ¼ cup (2 ounces) whole milk, room temperature

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in a 4-cup liquid measuring cup with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until the sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
2. For the dough: Whisk flour, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir water and milk into the sponge with a wooden spoon until well combined. Using the paddle attachment on low speed, slowly add the sponge mixture to the flour mixture and mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Increase the speed to medium-low and continue to mix until the dough becomes a uniform mass that collects on the paddle and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 4 to 6 minutes.
3. Remove the paddle and fit the stand mixer with the dough hook. Knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and shiny (the dough will be very sticky), about 10 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic, and let it rise until doubled in size, 30 minutes to 1 hour.
4. Using a greased bowl scraper (or a rubber spatula), fold the dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 45 degrees and fold the dough again; repeat turning the bowl and folding the dough 6 more times (a total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic and let it rise for 30 minutes. Repeat the folding process, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rise until nearly doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
5. One hour before baking, adjust the oven racks to the lower-middle and lowest positions. Place a baking stone on the upper rack and heat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Dust two 12 by 6-inch pieces of parchment paper liberally with flour. Transfer the dough to a well-floured counter (the side of the dough that was against the bowl should now be against the counter). Liberally dust the top of the dough with flour and divide it in half. Turn one piece of dough cut side up and dust it with flour. Using your well-floured hands, press and stretch the dough into a 12 by 6-inch rectangle, with the short side parallel to the counter edge, being careful not to deflate the dough completely.
6. Stretch and fold the top and bottom thirds of the dough over the middle like a business letter to form a rough 7 by 4-inch loaf. Pinch the seams closed. Transfer the loaf seam side down to one sheet of prepared parchment and cover loosely with greased plastic. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Let the loaves sit until puffy and the surface of the loaves develops small bubbles, about 30 minutes.
7. Transfer the parchment with the loaves to a pizza peel. Using your floured fingertips, evenly poke the entire surface of each loaf to form a 10 by 6-inch rectangle. Mist the loaves with water.
8. Working quickly, slide each piece of parchment with a loaf onto the baking stone. Bake, misting the loaves with water twice more during the first 5 minutes of baking time, until the crust is deep golden brown and the loaves register 210 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the loaves halfway through baking. Transfer the loaves to a wire rack, discard the parchment, and let them cool completely, about 2 hours, before serving.