Honey Spelt Bread

Why this recipe works Spelt is an ancient grain—it’s a cousin of modern wheat but has been cultivated for more than 8,000 years. In ancient Greek mythology, the goddess Demeter gifted spelt to the Greeks, who then taught other civilizations how to grow it and cook with it. Spelt’s popularity spread throughout Central Europe during the Bronze and Iron Ages, and remains popular there today. Cultivation of spelt was eventually largely replaced by modern wheat, but the grain has recently experienced a resurgence in popularity. Hardier and nuttier than common wheat, spelt lends a rich, sweet flavor to baked goods. Because of its high water solubility, its nutrients are also more quickly absorbed by the body, making it a healthful grain full of fiber, protein, and vitamins. We wanted to make a delicious rustic bread that would take advantage of this unique grain’s qualities. For superior flavor, we followed the lead of our Rustic Wheat Berry Bread and made our own spelt flour by soaking whole spelt berries overnight to soften their hard outer shells, and then pureeing them into a mash. Combining the spelt with some bread flour gave us a sturdy loaf with wheaty flavor and a pleasant chew. This loaf tasted great, but we thought that the addition of honey could complement the earthy grain. A full quarter cup enhanced the spelt’s natural sweetness and gave the loaf a deep brown color, bringing this ancient grain into the modern age. You can find whole spelt berries in the natural- or bulk-foods section of the grocery store.

MAKES: 1 loaf

RESTING TIME: 12 hours 20 minutes

RISING TIME: 2½ to 3 hours

BAKING TIME: 30 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 16½ to 17 hours, plus 3 hours cooling time

KEY EQUIPMENT: food processor, couche, water-filled spray bottle, rimmed baking sheet, baking stone, 2 (9- inch) disposable aluminum pie plates, 2 quarts lava rocks, pizza peel, flipping board, lame, instant-read thermometer

INGREDIENTS:

FOR THE SOAKER

• 1¼ cups (8 ounces) spelt berries
• 1 cup (8 ounces) water, room temperature

FOR THE SPONGE

• ¾ cup (4⅛ ounces) bread flour
• ½ cup (4 ounces) water, room temperature
• ¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast

FOR THE DOUGH

• 1 cup (5½ ounces) bread flour
• 2½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
• ¼ cup (3 ounces) honey
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1½ teaspoons salt

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. For the soaker: Combine spelt berries and water in a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature until grains are fully hydrated and softened, at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in a 4-cup liquid measuring cup with a wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until the sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
3. For the dough: Whisk flour and yeast together in the bowl of a stand mixer. Process soaked spelt berries and the remaining soaking liquid in a food processor until the grains are finely ground, about 4 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Stir the spelt berry mixture and honey into the sponge with a wooden spoon until well combined. Using the dough hook on low speed, slowly add the sponge mixture to the flour mixture and mix until a cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rest for 20 minutes.
4. Add oil and salt to the dough and knead on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and elastic and clears the sides of the bowl but sticks to the bottom, about 5 minutes. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic, and let it rise for 30 minutes.
5. Using a greased bowl scraper (or your fingertips), fold the dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 45 degrees and fold the dough again; repeat turning the bowl and folding the dough 6 more times (a total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic and let it rise for 30 minutes. Repeat the folding process, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic and let the dough rise until nearly doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
6. Mist the underside of a couche with water, drape it over an inverted rimmed baking sheet, and dust it evenly with flour. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured counter (the side of the dough that was against the bowl should now be against the counter). Press and stretch the dough into a 10-inch square, deflating any gas pockets larger than 1 inch. Fold the top and bottom corners of the dough diagonally into the center of the square and press gently to seal.
7. Stretch and fold the upper and bottom thirds of the dough toward the center and press gently to seal. Stretch and fold the dough in half toward you to form a rough 12 by 5-inch diamond-shaped loaf and pinch the seam closed.
8. Gently slide your hands underneath each end of the loaf and transfer it seam side up to the prepared couche. On either side of the loaf, pinch the couche into a pleat, then fold the remaining edges of the couche over the loaf to cover it completely. Carefully place the sheet inside a large plastic garbage bag. Tie, or fold under, the open end of the bag to fully enclose it. Let it rise until the loaf increases in size by about half and the dough springs back minimally when poked gently with your knuckle, about 30 minutes (remove the loaf from the bag to test).
9. One hour before baking, adjust the oven racks to the lower-middle and lowest positions. Place a baking stone on the upper rack, place 2 disposable aluminum pie plates filled with 1 quart of lava rocks each on the lower rack, and preheat the oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a pizza peel with a 16 by 12-inch piece of parchment paper, with the long edge perpendicular to the handle. Bring 1 cup of water to a boil.
10. Remove the sheet with the loaf from the bag. Unfold the couche, pulling from the ends to remove the pleats. Dust the top of the loaf with flour. If any seams have reopened, pinch them closed before dusting with flour. Gently push with the side of a flipping board, roll the loaf over so it is seam side down. Using your hand, hold the long edge of the flipping board between the loaf and couche at a 45-degree angle, then lift the couche with your other hand and flip the loaf seam side up onto the board. Invert the loaf seam side down onto the prepared pizza peel. Reshape the loaf as needed, tucking the edges under to form a taut diamond shape.
11. Carefully pour ½ cup of boiling water into one disposable pie plate of preheated rocks and close the oven door for 1 minute to create steam. Meanwhile, holding a lame (scoring tool) concave side up at a 30-degree angle to the loaf, make three 6-inch-long, ½-inch-deep diagonal slashes with a swift, fluid motion across the top of the loaf, starting and stopping about ½ inch from the edges and spacing the slashes about 2 inches apart.
12. Working quickly, slide the parchment with the loaf onto the baking stone and pour the remaining ½ cup of boiling water into the second disposable pie plate of preheated rocks. Bake until the crust is dark brown and the loaf registers 205 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating the loaf halfway through baking. Transfer the loaf to a wire rack, discard the parchment, and let it cool completely, about 3 hours, before serving.