Two Cheese Squash Soufflé

EVERY SERIOUS SOUTHERN COOK HAS HIS OR HER special crookneck squash soufflé. This is mine, in its most recent reincarnation. For years, I made the soufflé with no garlic and only sharp cheddar cheese, then decided it had to be more aggressive. Now I’m convinced that a combination of well-aged, extra-sharp cheddar (preferably Vermont or Canadian) produces the ultimate soufflé. For the right texture, do not use a food processor for this dish, and when shopping, buy only bright yellow, firm, medium-size yellow squash with no dark spots. The soufflé is ideal with short ribs of beef, meat loaf, and baked ham stuffed with greens. I wish I could say that this soufflé can be mixed and frozen, then thawed and baked, like so many others, but it has never tasted right when I’ve tried this. Don’t ask me why. I don’t even like leftover soufflé that’s refrigerated in foil and reheated for another meal.

MAKES: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 medium yellow squash (about 3 pounds), scrubbed and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 large onions, coarsely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, softened
• 2 large eggs, beaten
• 1/2 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
• 1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Pinch of ground nutmeg
• 1/2 cup grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese
• 1/2 cup freshly grated genuine Parmesan cheese

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. In a large saucepan, combine the yellow squash and onions. Add enough salted water to cover the vegetables and bring it to a boil.
3. Reduce the heat to low, cover the saucepan, and simmer until the squash is tender, which takes about 30 minutes.
4. Drain the cooked squash and onions in a colander. Mash them well with a potato masher or heavy fork to remove excess liquid.
5. Place the mashed vegetables in a large mixing bowl.
6. Add the chopped garlic, softened butter, beaten eggs, minced parsley leaves, bread crumbs, salt, black pepper, ground nutmeg, and grated cheddar cheese to the mixing bowl. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly with a heavy spoon.
7. Transfer the mixture to a well-buttered medium-sized baking or gratin dish.
8. Sprinkle the remaining grated Parmesan cheese over the top of the mixture.
9. Bake the dish in the preheated oven until it turns golden brown, which usually takes about 30 minutes.
10. Serve the dish hot.