Creamed Shad Roe

MUCH PRIZED BY THE EARLY INDIANS AND PILGRIMS for its sweet (if terribly bony) flesh and the delectable roe, the large American shad that migrated each spring from the Atlantic to spawn in eastern fresh-water rivers was so popular by the nineteenth century that it was fished almost to extinction (and, later, almost driven out of certain waters by industrial pollution). Today, the shad have rebounded, and while, in my experience, it’s rare to find the annoyingly bony fish itself except in the best seafood markets of Maryland, Delaware, and Virginia, Southerners relish the roe and have come up with numerous creative ways to prepare it: roasted with wild sorrel, stuffed into other fish, poached with various vegetables, and creamed, as in this rather elegant recipe retrieved from an old Annapolis, Maryland, church cookbook. (Marylanders, by the way, have also devised a way to bake or steam shad five or six hours, till the bones literally disintegrate.)

MAKES: 4 servings

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 slices bacon
• 2 pairs shad roe (about 1 pound)
• 2 cups water
• 1⁄2 cup whole milk
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 3 scallions (part of green tops included), minced
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1⁄2 cup heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons dry sherry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Tabasco sauce to taste
• 4 pieces toast
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. In a large, heavy skillet, fry the bacon over moderate heat until crisp.
2. Drain the bacon on paper towels, crumble it, and set it aside.
3. Drain the grease from the skillet and allow the skillet to cool.
4. Arrange the shad roe in the skillet and add the water, milk, lemon juice, and bay leaf.
5. Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes.
6. Transfer the shad roe to a plate and set aside, keeping the cooking liquid in the skillet and removing the bay leaf.
7. In a large saucepan, melt the butter over low heat.
8. Add the minced scallions to the melted butter and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
9. Sprinkle the flour into the saucepan and whisk until well blended, about 1 minute.
10. Increase the heat to moderate and add the reserved cooking liquid from the shad roe.
11. Whisk the mixture rapidly until thickened and smooth.
12. Add the heavy cream, dry sherry, salt, pepper, and Tabasco sauce to the saucepan.
13. Stir until well blended.
14. Cut the shad roe into bite-size pieces and add them to the sauce.
15. Stir the mixture until the roe is well heated.
16. To serve, place a piece of toast on individual plates.
17. Spoon equal amounts of the creamed roe on top of each toast.
18. Garnish the tops of the creamed roe with the crumbled bacon and minced parsley.